Modesty's Costume Closet

It's November and the year is rapidly drawing to a close. The hectic costume month of October has passed and now I'm taking stock of what I've done and what I have planned to do in the next year. It was very productive.  2024 Costume Review  Since adopting a new schedule for myself, I've found my projects making steady progress instead of sporadic updates.   The 7 kimono project: This was an ambitious undertaking and I'm so pleased how it came together. I learned SO much in this process and hope to clear out room in my apartment to do a proper photoshoot. I do still intend to make zori for these outfits and some kanzashi out of the leftover fabric.  Morticia Dance Costume: This came out so well! It also gave me some challenges and taught me things about fabric choice. It was perfect for the Halloween dance party.  Updates to my Ballroom Gown: While I plan on making my own dress in the future I wanted to spruce up my comp dress with some rhinestones and a ne...

To wrap up this series of blog posts, I'm going into how to dress in a kimono.  Learning how to dress yourself and others in a kimono is called Kitsuke. You can be certified to practice as a teacher! The style and way you wear a kimono has a lot of dependencies that take years to comprehend. So...I've only done this for a year, so I'm no expert, but I know where to learn from! ☝Basic Tips : There are schools, fashion trends, and cultural expectations. These things CHANGE over time and vary based on location. For cosplay, observe the character's presentation and try to mimic that. For everyday wear, do your research. For special events, reach out to a consultant.  A Kitsuke Kit These are items you need to wear your kimono and obi ensemble.  Bare Minimum Requirements:  2 - 3 ties (himo) Juban: Hanjuban (paired wrap skirt/susuyoke)  or Nagajuban obi ita (feminine only) eri shin (feminine only) Common for Masculine Kimono 2 ties/himo. One for the juban and one for t...

This should round out the things you can make or acquire for your kimono ensemble. This is not an exhaustive list but there are a few things I wanted to cover. Tabi  Geta or Zori Korin Belt Haori Himo Haori/Nagabaori Kanzashi Hair Pins Fans and Bags Footwear Tabi are socks made to be worn with sandals. Although, based on construction, Tabi can also be slippers or proper shoes themselves! It all depends on how it is made.  Knit Tabi Socks are a modern version of tabi that behaves just like a sock. It's stretchy because it's knitwear. And as you know, I've knit my own tabi , so you can learn how to knit your own too !  Sewn Tabi are a bit more like making clothe shoes if you are familiar with the process. The outer sole of the shoe may be a fairly thick or leather-ish material because these can be used as indoor shoes and may need that extra protection to last longer. The outer and inner material can be made from stretch or non-stretch fabric.  Pattern for Tabi Zori an...

The obi is supporting actor of a kimono ensemble. They can be equally as extravagant in design motifs and materials. Any design motifs can be woven, embroidered or painted onto the obi. Silk painting being the most formal.   Types of Obi  Kaku Obi - This is typically the Men’s Obi but women can wear it too. Consider it gender neutral. It has a width of 9 - 10 cm (3.5 - 4 inches) and a length between 3.6m - 4m.  Hanhaba Obi - Informal Female Obi, which translates to Half Width because it is half the width of a formal obi. Hanhaba obi are 15 cm wide and 3.6m - 4.5m long (Suggested: 3.80 - 4.20m) (4m - 4.40 m for wider waists). Nagoya Obi - Semi Formal Obi made of stiff fabric or reinforced with a fabric stiffener/interfacing. There are a few ways to make a Nagoya obi (named after the region.) One way is to make the entire obi all one uniform width for the full length. But there are some that are pre-folded to make an Otaiko musubi. So it is half-width for a few yard...

There are a few things you can do to increase the formality of the kimono. Most of these things you should consider in the PLANNING phase before you start measuring and cutting.   Fabric Fiber Choice One of the hallmarks of a formal kimono is the fabric type. You will not find a formal cotton kimono. All formal kimono are silk. And usually a NICE silk too. Silk with "shlubs" like silk dupioni are a less formal silk even in polyester form. A nice silk is smooth or has a purposeful design in the weave. However, even if you have a nice silk if it has a komon pattern it's not considered formal...it's just a very nice informal outfit.  Sleeve Height (Feminine Only) Furisode sleeve heights vary which affects the occasion and formality level.  Ko Furisode has a height of 75 - 80 cm long when finished. This type of furisode was worn as a school uniform back in the early 1900s, so it's good for that kind of historical outfit and some cosplay. In modern day, this is only wo...

Finally getting around to writing about putting things together. By this point, your kimono panels should be cut and marked with the tailoring points mentioned in the previous post. It's also recommended to put on any design motifs you intend to put on before sewing things together. (Especially if you are painting the fabric. There's a lot less risk of paint dripping on parts you don't intend to have paint on. 😓 She says from experience.) I'll make another post about painting or printing or other methods of putting designs on the kimono. For now here's what this post will attempt to cover:  Sewing Methods Hems and Seams Construction method Further Resources Sewing by Hand or Machine🧵 You can sew your kimono by hand or machine. There are pros and cons of each method.  Sewing by hand is more traditional and offers more control which is very helpful when attaching the collar. The method of hand-sewing developed especially for kimono is called unshin . It takes time t...

This is the primary benefit to making your own kimono, having it tailored to you! In this post, I will go over the following:  Body Measurements you need Names of the Panels and their dimensions Calculating Fabric needs Tailoring points And a few tips and resources With measurements there are major and minor measurements. Focus on the major measurements for calculating fabric amount and the size and shape of the panel pieces. The minor measurements are mostly for construction so you put the pieces together correctly and they fall in the right place for your body. Lets start with the measurements you need to take on the body.  Body Measurements There are only 3 body measurements for kimono, although they will differ slightly between a masculine and feminine kimono. You need:  Yuki  - a measurement taken from the spine at the base of the neck to the shoulder joint, then to the wrist while holding the arm at a 45° angle. (You CAN T-Pose it but it is a little less accura...