Modesty's Costume Closet

This past year was very productive. Lots of progress was made and I've had some reflection on my spending habits. A small space feels a lot smaller with clutter. Organizing and interior design was never my forte, you should see how rough my Sims houses are. 😂 Making plans comes a bit easier so I've been working on new ways for me to keep track and make progress on the myriad of projects rotting on the backburners.  My new promise or maxim is: Do not keep supplies that are not attached to an active project.    Let's try to keep this promise.   Organization The first thing I did was find all my scattered lists of project ideas and put it in one place. I put things into categories because that's how my brain works.  Evaluation Going through the list, I checked the projects and evaluated certain aspects about the project like if I have the supplies, how long I think it will take, and how interested or passionate I am about the project. The passion is an in the mome...

To wrap up this series of blog posts, I'm going into how to dress in a kimono.  Learning how to dress yourself and others in a kimono is called Kitsuke. You can be certified to practice as a teacher! The style and way you wear a kimono has a lot of dependencies that take years to comprehend. So...I've only done this for a year, so I'm no expert, but I know where to learn from! ☝Basic Tips : There are schools, fashion trends, and cultural expectations. These things CHANGE over time and vary based on location. For cosplay, observe the character's presentation and try to mimic that. For everyday wear, do your research. For special events, reach out to a consultant.  A Kitsuke Kit These are items you need to wear your kimono and obi ensemble.  Bare Minimum Requirements:  2 - 3 ties (himo) Juban: Hanjuban (paired wrap skirt/susuyoke)  or Nagajuban obi ita (feminine only) eri shin (feminine only) Common for Masculine Kimono 2 ties/himo. One for the juban and one for t...

This should round out the things you can make or acquire for your kimono ensemble. This is not an exhaustive list but there are a few things I wanted to cover. Tabi  Geta or Zori Korin Belt Haori Himo Haori/Nagabaori Kanzashi Hair Pins Fans and Bags Footwear Tabi are socks made to be worn with sandals. Although, based on construction, Tabi can also be slippers or proper shoes themselves! It all depends on how it is made.  Knit Tabi Socks are a modern version of tabi that behaves just like a sock. It's stretchy because it's knitwear. And as you know, I've knit my own tabi , so you can learn how to knit your own too !  Sewn Tabi are a bit more like making clothe shoes if you are familiar with the process. The outer sole of the shoe may be a fairly thick or leather-ish material because these can be used as indoor shoes and may need that extra protection to last longer. The outer and inner material can be made from stretch or non-stretch fabric.  Pattern for Tabi Zori an...

There are a few things you can do to increase the formality of the kimono. Most of these things you should consider in the PLANNING phase before you start measuring and cutting.   Fabric Fiber Choice One of the hallmarks of a formal kimono is the fabric type. You will not find a formal cotton kimono. All formal kimono are silk. And usually a NICE silk too. Silk with "shlubs" like silk dupioni are a less formal silk even in polyester form. A nice silk is smooth or has a purposeful design in the weave. However, even if you have a nice silk if it has a komon pattern it's not considered formal...it's just a very nice informal outfit.  Sleeve Height (Feminine Only) Furisode sleeve heights vary which affects the occasion and formality level.  Ko Furisode has a height of 75 - 80 cm long when finished. This type of furisode was worn as a school uniform back in the early 1900s, so it's good for that kind of historical outfit and some cosplay. In modern day, this is only wo...

Duct tape Dummy or a Duct tape mannequin is a quick way to create a replica of your body for all kinds of projects. From being a dress form to creating a pattern, Duct tape dummies (DTD) are incredibly useful for all kinds of costume projects.  However, if you are trying to make a full body DTD, you'll need assistance to make it. It may also destroy some of your clothing in some methods. And you may not feel comfortable making one as it is restrictive.  The primary reasons for making a DTD are to make patterns for clothes or armor. Because it is easy to translate the 3D form into a 2D pattern.  Puppet head covering pattern. Personally, for things like gloves or boot covers, I have no trouble making a DTD of an arm or a leg. But full body I need a different approach.  Method 1: Silhouette Tracing As a kid, I remember having a criminal outline done on banner paper of myself. It is still a viable approach although now I may need to tape pieces of banner paper side by si...

In preparation for my next sewing project, I wanted a cutting table but I have no room in my apartment for more furniture. I also want a better surface to iron on that's bigger than my ironing board. Currently I cut my fabric on the floor which is fine for smaller projects. But making my hakama was really testing my physical limits. So to avoid further spinal aches, I wanted to lift my fabric prep from the floor to a table.  I have a cheap, long card table that used to be my main crafting table when I first moved to Texas. It's a good height but the surface is shot due to years of sloppy crafting. It's a long, narrow table which is going to work well (I hope) for my kimono sewing. However, I want to make the surface smooth and clean so it's easy to cut. My current cutting board is too wide for the table. So my first objective was to figure out how to make this table a better surface for cutting fabric.  Cutting Board As long as you're using scissors to cut, a cuttin...

 A personal flaw of mine is being very discouraged in reaction to mistakes. It's taken years to realize the root of this issue. And oddly enough, costumes have helped me heal. I'm learning how to make happy mistakes or at least embrace the process. And all this flowery intro is how my process in learning how to make a kimono is going. My hindsight (that now feels a bit embarrassing) and my current process plan and hopefully resources for anyone to have a better foundation than me getting started.  Here were the challenges I had on this project:  I rely on patterns. When it comes to brain load, measuring and understanding why the shapes work is often a lift I can't make easily. The patterns available are a mix of authentic and more Western approaches to sewing. (Something that I only recently learned is the variation of seamstress traditions between cultures.) Technically, you don't NEED a pattern for kimono, but although I knew the pattern shapes, I did not know how to ...

 Shame on me for not posting sooner, but the Unicorn dance costume was a success! (A proper post-mortem will come later.)  However, I've decided to enter my first competition. Just a mini-match for now but I will need a dress for it. Which of course, is very exciting when it comes to "what should I wear?" I've been Pinning ideas for different dress shapes, colors and designs and maybe overwhelming myself. So, it's time to hit pause and layout some design considerations as well as practical ones. Let's start with practical.  Practical Considerations - Budget and Investment These are the pillars of practical decisions for costumes (and other creative things): Budget and Investment.  Budget = what you can spend/spare in terms of time, money, space, and energy. Basically it's what you have on hand already.  Investment = what you can put into a project in terms of time, money, space, and energy. It's more about capacity. My analogy of this is Investment is ...

 I'm going to share a bit of my process for making decisions. Lately, I have been assailed by indecisiveness and fretting about costume colors. So, I've sat myself down and did some practical things to help make these decisions.  Requirements This will require visual aides so either use a drawing that you will trace and color in or scan in a drawing to manipulate on art software. I use Photoshop but you can use any program that lets you dump colors and change layers.  Process Brainstorm :  Find inspiration based on costume themes or favorite colors or common color compliments for clothes or traditional cultural colors.  Create a cookie cutter template where you can place the colors generally where they need. If you are doing this physically, make sure the linework is bolded so you can retrace and try other colors.  Look at them all side-by-side.  Eliminate first by 'feeling'. "I'm not crazy about this combo." "Not my vibe." "Just not into it...