Kimono Series: Upgrading Kimono to Formal

There are a few things you can do to increase the formality of the kimono. Most of these things you should consider in the PLANNING phase before you start measuring and cutting.  

Fabric Fiber Choice

One of the hallmarks of a formal kimono is the fabric type. You will not find a formal cotton kimono. All formal kimono are silk. And usually a NICE silk too. Silk with "shlubs" like silk dupioni are a less formal silk even in polyester form. A nice silk is smooth or has a purposeful design in the weave. However, even if you have a nice silk if it has a komon pattern it's not considered formal...it's just a very nice informal outfit. 

Sleeve Height (Feminine Only)

Furisode sleeve heights vary which affects the occasion and formality level. 

Ko Furisode has a height of 75 - 80 cm long when finished. This type of furisode was worn as a school uniform back in the early 1900s, so it's good for that kind of historical outfit and some cosplay. In modern day, this is only worn during a graduation ceremony so it is not a type of furisode worn out and about anymore. It would not be considered very formal. 

Chu Furisode has a sleeve height of 90 - 106 cm when finished. This is a formal furisode length and the one typically worn out and about on formal occasions. 😉 

Oo Furisode has a finished sleeve length of 114 - 125 cm. It is reserved for bridal kimono. 

😕 Who wears a furisode? 
The tradition is that young, unmarried women wear furisode on formal occasions. However, in some periods of history, young men and boys also wore furisode. And nowadays, any woman of any age or marital status wear furisode if they want to. So don't feel like you have to limit yourself. 

Lining or Partial lining

Awase is the terminology for a fully lined kimono. Typically formal kimono are lined, however it is not an indicator. You can have a casual winter kimono with lining. 

Kimono lining usually has a two color pattern: white + a color close to the outer kimono color (or default is red). The colored portion of the lining is called Hakakke and it is usually made from habotai silk. However, it is also not uncommon for the lining to be a single color or to have dyed ends in a gradient instead of connecting a colored piece via sewing. 

Here is a diagram by Kurokami-Kanzashi of kimono lining. 

🎵Note: You can partially line a kimono by only sewing the Hakakke portions shown in the diagram. For this you would seam where you would put hems on a hitoe and use the unshin technique for invisible stitch/blind stitch to attach the other edge to the kimono fabric. 

I personally have not found great instructions for how to line a kimono. But here are a few resources in English: 

- Make Your Own Japanese Clothes (Available on the Internet Archive for free)

- House of Kimono Etsy Pattern $ (I've seen some of their tutorials and they do use a lot of western sewing techniques so something to consider.)

Family Crests: Kamon

Having a family crest applied to the kimono raises its formality level. You can have 1, 3 or 5 kamon on your kimono or haori. If you have 1 kamon, it is on the center back seam below the collar. If you have 3 kamon, they are on the center back seam and the back of the sleeves. For 5 kamon, you have the 3 on the back and two on the chest of the migoro. 

To apply the family crest you can paint or sublimate it onto the kimono OR embroider it. An embroidered kamon is less formal than the painted/sublimated one. 

Note: You would not add a family crest to a yukata or komon kimono or a kimono made from slubbed silk or "cheap silk". It would not raise the formality of these kimono. 

Designing or Picking a Kamon

You can find modern designs for kamon not attached to a family name or business with an online search for free kamon designs or kamon design generators.  

Alternatively you can create your own like you're making a personal brand logo. If you are going to pick one, I suggest watching the information videos below before you do. 

🎵Note: If you buy a used kimono that already has family crests/kamon on it, you can wear it without issue even if you do not belong to that family. If you are making a kimono, you have more control so be respectful and either use a "generic" kamon like Shogo suggests or create your own. 

Learn more about Kamon: 

 or 

Different Collars 

The one I demonstrated (or tried to demonstrate in my post) was bō eri (pre-folded men's collar) and bachi eri (pre-folded female collar). 

Hiro Eri is the collar fabric and usually lining. You must fold it down before putting on your kimono.  Sometimes, kimono tailors add metal snaps or pull strings to help fold it down. around the neck.

📓Note: Your formal kimono CAN have a pre-folded collar to make it easier to put on. (It's less common but IS allowed.)

More Layers

You may see some formal kimonos that look like they have more than just the juban layer peeking out of the collar. This is called a Hiyoku and it is only a strip of fabric worn over the juban collar but under the kimono collar. But you can also sew it into the collar of your formal kimono like a secondary inner collar. See Kurokami-Kanzashi's Tutorial about it. 

Houmongi: Painted panels

A houmongi style kimono you paint across the seams usually on the bottom half of the kimono, but it's not limited to just the bottom. Either way, before you sew your kimono together, paint your panels in houmongi style. Here are some references for fabric painting and such. 

That's the best I can do for now as far as advice goes. Take it all with a healthy pinch of salt as my experience is limited.