Modesty's Costume Closet

 Continuing with our Mompe Hakama/Karusan-bakama we're going into some of the prep work for construction! See Part 1 for pattern drafting and design stuff .  NOTE : This is currently UNTESTED. I have sewn trousers before and pockets, but not button flies. I'll update this as I learn more with my actual experience. 🙈 Waist Band Closures A challenging part of this is that you WILL need closures. Because this is non-stretch fabric and we are not constructing traditional hakama, we must have an opening so we can get our trousers past our hips and up to our waist. However, I personally did not want to have that "J" shape fly on the front of my hakama and I wanted to have the closures hidden. So how to do this? I have a couple of options.  Buttons on the side Seams - I found a drawing I did where I drew a 1920s aviatrix with pilot pants and it had buttons up the side seams. I can hide the buttons easily enough and it is kind of like sasahida in traditional hakama. And the

The defining feature besides the pleats are the gathered portion of the trouser leg. I feel these can be the most complicated of the Hakama. So, I will have multiple posts. This post will go over design elements, other patterns, measurements, and pattern drafting. The next post will go into sewing instructions.  Update : Recently learned that Mompe is usually worn by female laborers and Karusan-bakama are the more ballooning type hakama seen in Demon Slayer. I will go over sewing for Karusan-bakama. Just wanted to make sure I had my facts on straight.  It still gathers at the ankle. You can see examples of this style of hakama in: Demon Slayer, Spirited Away, and Inuyasha.  Two Versions  So once again there is a more traditional look to these and a more western style to them. I'm leaning toward making this Demon Slayer style which definitely takes a more Western approach. However, the video that helped inspire this post shows a more Eastern Style with ties and sasahida if you prefe

Andon Bakama were hakama typically worn by women in an academic setting during the 1900s or so. Modern times, they are usually worn for formal occasions such as graduation. It is also the style that just looks nice with a kimono especially for those of us with Western hips the size of Texas.  See examples in Anime/Games: Here Comes Miss Modern, Great Ace Attorney Chronicles, Sakura Wars.  So let's get into how to make one. Tutorial style! Design Elements These are things to consider before you start.  by Chihirohowe Skirt Length Traditionally this is worn just below the ankle if you are wearing flat sandals, geta, or zori. It is worn above the ankle for sneakers, boots, and heels. You can adjust how high on your waist you wear it if you are going to switch between the two.  Colors Normally, these are a solid color, sometimes with embroidered floral patterns near the bottom. Red/Scarlet is uncommon outside of Miko. Patterned fabric is appropriate for this.  Side Openings The length

Time for a new series! Haven't done one in awhile. It's my plan to share what I've been collecting in my mind for my Hakama. This is stuff to the best of my knowledge which to be fair is based entirely on what I can find in English. I did learn a lot but I don't want to go too in the weeds...like I did when I was looking for info. So, I'm not going to get into history or things like that per se unless it is relevant.  I also limited to the things I wanted to make or thought I was going to make.  There are 4 variations of hakama for this series:   Ando Bakama - this is what I'm wearing for the fox caretaker Hibakama - the miko stuff I'd been studying Hakama - martial arts style, I'm sure it has a specific name...maybe Tatti Hakama, but I don't want to go back to Wikipedia at the moment. 😅  Mompe Hakama /Karusan-bakama - Gathered trouser style hakama, could be used for Demon Slayer cosplay.  Here are the general things I was researching for my costum