Modesty's Costume Closet

 After much delay, I've finally sat down and tried figuring out how to make a pre-tied obi. Then I found someone who did it fairly well. For feminine costumes, I will explain how to make an Otaiko Tsuke-Obi and a Cho Tsuke-Obi. Note: I'll link to tutorial on how to put these on. It's hard to explain in writing. But the basic gist is that you tie a wrap around your waist and slide on the musubi.  Female Tsuke-Obi I found this image on Pinterest but could not find the original post or instructions. But I figure I could help interpret the image. (If someone does know where the original tutorial is and if there were written instructions, let me know!) Otherwise, you can check out this video for an alternative "no-sew" version of a pre-tied otaiko musubi. Written Instructions Illustration by Linda Kole aka Saiya-chan The Waist Wrap/"Do" The wrap that goes around your waist is labeled as "Do" in this image, but I will refer to it as waist wrap. This ...

To wrap up this series of blog posts, I'm going into how to dress in a kimono.  Learning how to dress yourself and others in a kimono is called Kitsuke. You can be certified to practice as a teacher! The style and way you wear a kimono has a lot of dependencies that take years to comprehend. So...I've only done this for a year, so I'm no expert, but I know where to learn from! ☝Basic Tips : There are schools, fashion trends, and cultural expectations. These things CHANGE over time and vary based on location. For cosplay, observe the character's presentation and try to mimic that. For everyday wear, do your research. For special events, reach out to a consultant.  A Kitsuke Kit These are items you need to wear your kimono and obi ensemble.  Bare Minimum Requirements:  2 - 3 ties (himo) Juban: Hanjuban (paired wrap skirt/susuyoke)  or Nagajuban obi ita (feminine only) eri shin (feminine only) Common for Masculine Kimono 2 ties/himo. One for the juban and one for t...

The obi is supporting actor of a kimono ensemble. They can be equally as extravagant in design motifs and materials. Any design motifs can be woven, embroidered or painted onto the obi. Silk painting being the most formal.   Types of Obi  Kaku Obi - This is typically the Men’s Obi but women can wear it too. Consider it gender neutral. It has a width of 9 - 10 cm (3.5 - 4 inches) and a length between 3.6m - 4m.  Hanhaba Obi - Informal Female Obi, which translates to Half Width because it is half the width of a formal obi. Hanhaba obi are 15 cm wide and 3.6m - 4.5m long (Suggested: 3.80 - 4.20m) (4m - 4.40 m for wider waists). Nagoya Obi - Semi Formal Obi made of stiff fabric or reinforced with a fabric stiffener/interfacing. There are a few ways to make a Nagoya obi (named after the region.) One way is to make the entire obi all one uniform width for the full length. But there are some that are pre-folded to make an Otaiko musubi. So it is half-width for a few yard...

Finally getting around to writing about putting things together. By this point, your kimono panels should be cut and marked with the tailoring points mentioned in the previous post. It's also recommended to put on any design motifs you intend to put on before sewing things together. (Especially if you are painting the fabric. There's a lot less risk of paint dripping on parts you don't intend to have paint on. 😓 She says from experience.) I'll make another post about painting or printing or other methods of putting designs on the kimono. For now here's what this post will attempt to cover:  Sewing Methods Hems and Seams Construction method Further Resources Sewing by Hand or Machine🧵 You can sew your kimono by hand or machine. There are pros and cons of each method.  Sewing by hand is more traditional and offers more control which is very helpful when attaching the collar. The method of hand-sewing developed especially for kimono is called unshin . It takes time t...

This is the primary benefit to making your own kimono, having it tailored to you! In this post, I will go over the following:  Body Measurements you need Names of the Panels and their dimensions Calculating Fabric needs Tailoring points And a few tips and resources With measurements there are major and minor measurements. Focus on the major measurements for calculating fabric amount and the size and shape of the panel pieces. The minor measurements are mostly for construction so you put the pieces together correctly and they fall in the right place for your body. Lets start with the measurements you need to take on the body.  Body Measurements There are only 3 body measurements for kimono, although they will differ slightly between a masculine and feminine kimono. You need:  Yuki  - a measurement taken from the spine at the base of the neck to the shoulder joint, then to the wrist while holding the arm at a 45° angle. (You CAN T-Pose it but it is a little less accura...

The purpose of this post is to give you some baselines and cultural common knowledge about kimono as well as the bare bones needed to make one.  What you Need to Wear a Kimono  Kimono is just a part of a whole outfit, just like a jacket is part of a tuxedo. These are the different things typically worn with modern kimono:  Hadagi/Nadajuban/Modern Underwear The first "layer" of this is undergarments. A Nadajuban looks similar to a kimono, except it does not have a wide collar. A Hadagi is a "shirt only" option worn with a wrap skirt. It is the first layer of protection against your skin/sweat/oils. This is even worn with Yukata. You can consider this an optional layer as Modern day underwear serves the same purpose.  🖉NOTE : You can wear a slip or shorts instead of the susoyoke (wrap skirt).  Juban/Nagajuban/Hanjuban The under kimono or Juban is the part you see peeking from the collar worn directly under the kimono. The Nagajuban is a single piece that looks ve...

 This is going to be the last planned kimono I'm making for this project. There are a few extra things on my to-do list and some things on my wish list too.  Here's how the Wisteria Cat kimono went.  So some things that went well:  French Seams done well! Even on the sleeves! Bless the walking foot! Got the pattern on the fabric to be upright on front and back. Collar went on smoothly! Even hem!! OMG...finally! Some things I wish went better:  I had to make a seam on the shoulder line which is not authentic. :( I did it to make the motif on the pattern look better so I didn't have upside down cats on the back of the body and sleeves. The sleeves are a bit short  I rushed my cutting and it got sloppy making me cut a part I didn't mean to cut and having to fudge around my mistake.  There's a bunch of little extra things I've been doing for these projects. Including kumihimo braiding!  So far I've made:  A kumihimo obijime 3 kumihimo haori himo ...

Over the past two weeks, I've worked on the male kimonos and got them put together.  The ensemble is not quite finished yet, I am working on hakama for both of them.  Color-wise they look similar, but you can tell they are different material. I've sewn the haori for the more matte red one.  With the haori As you can see, it's a very shiny haori. Needs a haori himo and some paint on it. But significant progress was made!  Kimono and Haori What Went Well I did my French seams correctly!  I figured out MY way of attaching the Okumi with French Seams These did not take long to make Pinking shears really help reduce fray They fit! What I learned Took me a bit to figure out how to put on sleeves since there no opening.  I did have to fudge some measurements because I was a little short on some of the fabric when I cut it and did not want to buy more.  The collars were still kind of a pain to put on but I'm getting better at stitch-in-the-ditch.  Blind h...

 Another week, another kimono constructed and I feel this is my best one yet!  Before putting on the collar and sleeves.  All put together Such a pretty pattern! I used a walking foot to make this one which meant I had to sew a bit slower, but that gave me nicer seams.  I will be going with serged seams or "hair line" seams, but I have not done that yet as of writing this post. For now, she's set aside so I can start working on the NEXT kimono which is my burgundy men's kimono. (I've already had some trouble with it. I really have to pay attention to right side wrong side when using fabric that has no obvious pattern.😅) So we're chugging along at a good pace with this project. Here's what's left:  Hem, attach collar and sleeves to burgundy kimono✅ Construct the Red Men's Kimono✅ Cut, mark and construct the Cotton Cat Kimono Sew the grey hakama✅ Sew the red haori✅ Sew the black lady's haori  Sew the black hakama Some of the extra little project...

 The next kimono I made was Ruka Rengoku's pink spring Kimono. Making this a cosplay kimono. Currently, the kimono is unpainted. But I wanted to pause and admire the progress made since starting these kimono projects.  Things that went well:  All the major seams are French seams. I did it correctly this time!  The collar was a bit easier to do this time.  I put the chikara nuno in correctly this time. At least for one of them.  I was able to do a blind hem by machine!  It fits!  Some things I learned:  Matching thread color is important. Hot pink really shows up.  This polyester silk is a bit more slippery than I expected.  My Clover Seam Iron is hottest on the rod part and not the flat part. Burned a little hole! (I was able to hide in the hem.)  What still needs doing:  I want to paint the flower pattern onto the kimono. I'm trying to make stencils to help me with clean lines. But I'm having trouble with placement. It's ...