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Kimono Series: Obi and Obi Accessories

The obi is supporting actor of a kimono ensemble. They can be equally as extravagant in design motifs and materials. Any design motifs can be woven, embroidered or painted onto the obi. Silk painting being the most formal.  

Types of Obi 

Kaku Obi - This is typically the Men’s Obi but women can wear it too. Consider it gender neutral. It has a width of 9 - 10 cm (3.5 - 4 inches) and a length between 3.6m - 4m. 

Hanhaba Obi - Informal Female Obi, which translates to Half Width because it is half the width of a formal obi. Hanhaba obi are 15 cm wide and 3.6m - 4.5m long (Suggested: 3.80 - 4.20m) (4m - 4.40 m for wider waists).

Nagoya Obi - Semi Formal Obi made of stiff fabric or reinforced with a fabric stiffener/interfacing. There are a few ways to make a Nagoya obi (named after the region.) One way is to make the entire obi all one uniform width for the full length. But there are some that are pre-folded to make an Otaiko musubi. So it is half-width for a few yards then full width for the last few yards. 

Total Length 3.6m, full width 30 cm, half width 15 cm.

My homemade Nagoya Obi

Heko Obi -  gauze/crepe/single layer fabric informal obi for yukata or children. 20 - 30 cm wide, 3m long (9.8 ft).

Fukuro Obi - A formal Obi 32 - 35 cm wide, made from a patterned fabric and a lining fabric sewn together. About 4 m long or more. Fukuro means "bag" which indicates how it's sewn. It is sewn a bit like a pillow case.  

Maru Obi - most formal obi that typically has gold or silver woven in. 30-32 cm wide and about 4 m long. Made from 60 wide cm fabric folded in half lengthwise then sewn together. 

Kind of like this I guess.
Here are a couple of video tutorials on how to sew Nagoya and Hanaba Obi.

Obi Accessories

Obi Accessories are based on what Obi musubi you tie. The most common things are: 

Obi Makura/Obi Pillow - This bean shaped pillow helps certain obi musubi stay "puffed" out. Typically the Otaiko which is the most common casual obi musubi. 
Tip: You can use a folded terrycloth hand cloth and hold it in place with the obiage.

Obiage - a single layer of silk fabric that covers the obi makura in the Otaiko musubi and lines alone the top of the obi. 
Tip: You can use a silk scarf instead of shopping specifically for an obiage. 

Obi jime - a cord used to hold down certain obi musubi and make a pretty color in the front 
Tip: You can make your own by learning Kumihimo weaving. Round and flat styles are appropriate. Or you can make long fabric tubes. Wedding kimonos tend to have fabric tubes I've noticed.

An obijime made from 2mm satin rattail

Obi Dome/Charms - You can find charms or brooches converted to slide onto the obijime for some decorative flair. There are also little plastic boards that let you attach key chain style charms and tuck it into the top of the obi so the charms hang down from it. 

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