Kimono Series: Constructing the Kimono

Finally getting around to writing about putting things together. By this point, your kimono panels should be cut and marked with the tailoring points mentioned in the previous post. It's also recommended to put on any design motifs you intend to put on before sewing things together. (Especially if you are painting the fabric. There's a lot less risk of paint dripping on parts you don't intend to have paint on. 😓 She says from experience.) I'll make another post about painting or printing or other methods of putting designs on the kimono. For now here's what this post will attempt to cover: 

• Sewing Methods
• Hems and Seams
• Construction method
• Further Resources

Sewing by Hand or Machine🧵

You can sew your kimono by hand or machine. There are pros and cons of each method. 

Sewing by hand is more traditional and offers more control which is very helpful when attaching the collar. The method of hand-sewing developed especially for kimono is called unshin. It takes time to master but it is ideal for the long seams and hems of a kimono. 

However, there's no need to disregard other traditions of sewing by hand. After all, in the past this was the only way to make clothes. You bet your bottom dollar that all cultures tried to develop methods to make sewing faster and reliable. 

For kimono sewing, you really only need 2 stitches: Running Stitch and Blind Hemming or Felled stitch. You may also do a back stitch or two to secure the ends of your seams but that's basically it! 

Hand sewing is also more budget friendly if you don't have any of the supplies or tools. Having the right kind of thimble, thread and sewing needle is basically all you need. 

While I may be singing the praises of hand-sewing, the reality is I have not sewn a kimono by hand. It does take more time and patience than sewing with a machine. Although, for delicate fabrics, I think hand-sewing is the way to go. 

Sewing machines are much faster and provide a very secure seam. It takes some practice to get good control, but it is a modern traditional technique! I will note that for kimono sewing, I highly recommend having a blind hem foot and a walking foot for your machine. You will need to have a basic machine stitch and possibly the blind hem stitch and zig-zag stitch. The downside is that you may need to invest more money to make sure you have a machine and the appropriate accessories. It still needs the appropriate needle based on the fabric you're sewing with. 

Here's a helpful guide about picking a machine needle.

Of course, you can do a mix of BOTH machine and hand sewing. Perhaps you do all your hems by hand and all your seams by machine. Perhaps doing only the collar by hand and everything else by machine. But let's talk about the styles of hems and seams you use. 

Hems and Seams 📏

When you sew two pieces of fabric together, the raw edges of the two fabrics need to be finished to prevent the fabric from fraying. (It also looks way nicer especially since these instructions are for an unlined kimono.) 

The traditional method for finishing a seam is called a Felled Seam in English. (I'm not sure of the Japanese term.) Once the seam is sewn, trim one of the raw edges so one edge is taller than the other. Then fold the tall edge so it encases the shorter fabric edge. Press the seam flat against the fabric and blind hem on the folded edge of the seam. (How to Sew a Felled Seam.)

This is a method best done by hand because doing this by machine will give you an obvious seam on the outside of the fabric. (Or at least attempt a machine blind hem.) 

However, there are a few other ways you can finish the seams that are less traditional but may be faster or more comfortable. 

1. Pinked Edges - use a tool called Pinking Shears. This makes a zig-zag patterned cut. Once you sew the seams, trim them with pinking shears. This prevents fraying somewhat. It's the fastest method but the least pretty in my opinion. (I'll admit many of my kimonos have pinked seams.)
2. Overlock Stitch - You can use a hand stitch method, a zig-zag stitch on a machine, or use an overlock/Serger machine. 
3. French Seams - Okay so this one is my personal favorite seam finish. You first sew a tiny seam with the fabric's wrong sides together. Trim the edges. Then fold at the seam so the fabric is touching right sides together and sew your seam on your sewing line. This will encase those edges
   
   
   
   

The hems are a double fold hem. Typically, you fold the raw edge of the edge up into the wrong side of the fabric and then fold it up again to encase the raw edge. So, you'll be sewing a folded edge to the fabric. You can stitch down this folded edge with a running or straight stitch, but then you will have obvious stitch marks on the outside of your kimono. A blind hem stitch is used to minimize the visibility of thread on the outside of the kimono. 

💡Tip: Depending on the type of fabric you use for the kimono, you may be able to use "hem tape" which is a heat-activated fusible fabric. You will have no stitches visible! However, make sure you get a tape appropriate for the fabric you are using. Not all fabrics handle heat in the same way. 

Constructing the Kimono 👘

When I start constructing a kimono, this is the order I tend to work in: 

1. Make the Sleeves
2. Sew the body 
3. Sew then attach the collar
4. Attach the sleeves

🎵Note: Sometimes I make the body portion first and leave the sleeves until later. But attaching the sleeves is the last thing I do. I find it's easier to put the collar on without wrestling the sleeves. Especially for a furisode.

Making the Sleeves

1. With the wrong side (inside) of the sleeve facing up, I roll in the hem for the wrist and sew it down. 
1. For a feminine kimono, I will also hem the body side opening.
2. Fold at the shoulder fold so the right sides of the fabric touch. 
3. Starting from the Marumi marks, sew along the bottom sewing line towards the body edge. 
4. Starting from the vertical mariumi mark, sew up towards the wrist opening. 
5. Sew around the marumi corner at a curve on the sewing line
6. Using a longer stitch, sew outside the curve on the seam allowance a few millimeters from the sewing line. This will be a gather stitch, if you are familiar with that. 
7. You may clip notches in the corner or slide your marumi template into the sleeve, gather the edge and fold it inward and press. 
8. Press all seams inwards
9. Repeat steps for the second sleeve. 

🎵Note: If using a French seam, make it a continuous sewing line from the bottom of the wrist opening to the edge of the body opening. Starting with wrong sides together, then right sides. French seams are good for curves. 

Body Construction

1. I start by sewing my center back seam so the two halves of the migoro are attached. Press the seam towards the left. 
1. Fold and sew down the uchiage seams IF you are including them. Press them so the seam folds downward. 
2. Hem the Arm holes. 
3. Fold at the shoulder fold with the right sides of the fabric touching. Sew the side seams. Press the side seams so they fold toward the center back seam. 
4. Align the Okumi seam line to the front Migoro sewing line. Sew the seam and press the seam fold towards the side seam. 
5. Hem the bottom of the kimono and the raw vertical edge of the Okumi. 

Collar construction

1. First you will attach the Kake Eri to the Eri (Collar).On the kake eri, fold the ends towards the wrong side of the fabric. 
2. Align the center of the kake eri with the center fold of the eri. The wrong side of the kake eri should lay on top of the right side of the eri. 
3. Sew the edges down by sewing the folded flap to the eri, see the image below. From now on, treat these as one.
   
   
   
4. Lay the kimono with the back of the kimono facing up. Align the center back seam with the center fold of the eri. Match them right sides together. There should be a 1 cm seam allowance. 
5. This is where things get challenging. Pinning the collar to the body of the kimono starting from the center back seam and moving along the back of the neck, then sort of turning it to go down the angle towards the okumi. There is a little bit of looseness at the shoulder fold. 
6. Once pinned in place, I usually start at the center fold and sew along the sewing line down to the ends of the Eri. Press the seam up towards the collar and away from the kimono body. 

7. (Optional) At this point, you can trim or fold in the okumi and excess fabric on the migoro. 

8. Starting at one of the collar ends, fold along the center right sides together. Sew along the short edge at the hem line. 
   
   
   
   
   
9. Turn out the corner of the eri so now the wrong sides are together.
10. On the unsewn edge, fold in along the sewing line and lay the folded edge a few millimeters beyond the sewn line of the collar. Pin down starting from one end and going towards the other

11. At the Shoulder fold, you will add some reinforcement. While not REQUIRED, for a hitoe kimono, it is a good idea. 

12. Now this is a part that might be easier to do with hand sewing. Using a blind stitch, sew the folded collar down. If you are using a sewing machine, I recommend repinning so the pins are on the outside of the kimono. Then stitch in the ditch so it catches the folded edge of the collar on the inside of the kimono. 

Trying to describe this with words is tricky. I will include videos in the resources about attaching kimono collars. It is better to see than read. 

Attach the Sleeves

1. Turn the Migoro/Kimono body inside out. 
2. Take one sleeve, and stick it into the kimono body aligning the shoulder fold with the sleeve fold and the wrist opening pointing towards the center back seam. 
3. Align the sleeve opening sewing lines. 
1. For a Female sleeve, sew from one of the sleeve-to-body sewing points up toward the shoulder fold and down the other side to the other sewing point. 
2. For a Male sleeve, sew the entire length of the sleeve opening starting from the bottom where the body side seam is, go up toward the shoulder fold and down the other side. 
4. Repeat for the other sleeve. 
5. Turn the kimono body right side out. 

Finishing Touches

1. Press all your seams so they lay flat. 

Resources 📚