Modesty's Costume Closet

So the male kimono projects are fairly straightforward. One will involve fabric paint but I feel much more confident about that aspect now.  Although I am finally working out my own pattern for my hakama trousers. I'll post updates about that when I make them. However, construction will be following what patterns suggest. I'm not going to get creative.  Shinjuro Kimono Pattern/Instructions:  Alice in Cosplayland Kimono  Other References:  Gathered Hakama Hashira Shawl Knitting Pattern Materials : Fabric: Polyester Twill (Wine), Cotton Broadcloth (Black) Needle: Universal 80 Thread: All Purpose Presser Feet: Normal, Blind Hem, Wide Hem, Button Hole Techniques/Methods: French Seam/Felled seam/Pinked Seam Blind Hem My Production Plan Sew Kimono using the pattern instructions but using Billy's sleeve construction method.  Use my own pattern for the Hakama Trousers.  Add pocket pouches to the leg panels.  Sew and serge crotch seam, joining the left and right front panels. Sew an

The green Polish kimono is still a female tomosode like the others but it includes a haori and uses a hanhaba obi. Also the details on the embroider add an element of complexity. I hope to wear this along with my Polish skirt to my parish's Multicultural Mass and Festival. 🌍 Polish Folk Art Kimono  Pattern/Instructions:  Alice in Cosplayland Kimono  Alice in Cosplayland Haori Other References:  Materials :  Fabric: Polyester Linen Green, Embroidery Stabilizer (tear away), Black Chiffon, Cotton Sateen, Bias Tape Needle: Universal 90/14, Machine Embroidery 90/14, Microtex 70/10, Universal 70/10   Thread: Black All purpose, Black Polyester Fine Techniques/Methods:  Machine Embroidery Bound/Biased Seams Blind Hem My Production Plan:  Digitize my Vector file into an Embroidery File. Mark the Kimono with the sewing lines and mark where embroidery will go.  Set up Kimono Embroidery Files: 3 corner flowers, 1 Tulip, 2 Horses, 2 Cats Embroider the Sleeves Sew the body of the kimono using p

After the juban, I plan on making the one thing that won't use juban! The Yukata. The video will be my main instructions since I also want to make this with a machine. But there are some things I plan to add because it is a white yukata.   Ruka Yukata Pattern/Instructions Alice in Cosplayland Traditional Kimono/Yukata Other Resources:  Ishiki ate  - This is the thing I'm going to add to the yukata. I like to call it the CYA panel. That is partly what it does. In addition to modesty, it is supposed to take some of the pressure off the center back seam when sitting or kneeling in a kimono. So it doesn't get split up the back seam.   It can be a small patch that you blind stitch by hand to the bum area. Or it can take up the whole back two panels. I'm doing the version in between. It will stretch between the 2 back side seams and hang from the uchiage seam.  This CYA panel is typically found on hitoe (unlined kimono) made of thin silks. It can also go into a nagajuban.  Ma

Some of the blogs and videos I've been watching use this kind of folding board that was long and narrow. Perfect for cutting, marking, and sewing Kimono and Obi. I come to learn it's called hera dai. (Google translates it as Spatula Table). Basically, when you use this with a tool called a hera (it is like a resin spatula) you can make indent marks on your kimono fabric instead of using chalk or markers.  From Morio-Hobby.com The closest thing I could find that was similar for Western sewing was this Dritz's cardboard pattern making mat. (I have one!) I like it and just realized I can put pins in it (game changer) but it doesn't stay as flat as I'd hoped. Also, it's made of corrugated cardboard which bends easily and can't get wet.  You might be able to purchase a hera dai by going to a shop in Japan. I did see some online stores, but I don't think they ship these internationally. I haven't seen them on eBay or Etsy either. So, that means I have to m

 A personal flaw of mine is being very discouraged in reaction to mistakes. It's taken years to realize the root of this issue. And oddly enough, costumes have helped me heal. I'm learning how to make happy mistakes or at least embrace the process. And all this flowery intro is how my process in learning how to make a kimono is going. My hindsight (that now feels a bit embarrassing) and my current process plan and hopefully resources for anyone to have a better foundation than me getting started.  Here were the challenges I had on this project:  I rely on patterns. When it comes to brain load, measuring and understanding why the shapes work is often a lift I can't make easily. The patterns available are a mix of authentic and more Western approaches to sewing. (Something that I only recently learned is the variation of seamstress traditions between cultures.) Technically, you don't NEED a pattern for kimono, but although I knew the pattern shapes, I did not know how to

 We have confirmation that I will be partaking in Smooth for the mini-match.  But I'm going to do the cost analysis for both because I'm feeling  both. Let's start with the current plan.  Modified Flame Dress  Base Dress = $115 Rit Dye Synthetic = ~$11 each (I need 2 Red and Orange) Metallic Spandex .25 Yard of Red = ~$4 Gold/Bronze = Owned $0 (or $4 each) Fire Opal Rhinestones = $5 - $6 Siam Red Rhinestones = $5 - $6 White Rhinestones = Owned $0 Fabric Spray Glue = $10 New Base Dress = $60 Red Elastic = $5  Alt: Found a dress in the color scheme and base design that I like for only $60 and free shipping.  Potential Total = $153 - $170 Alt Cost = $82  (This also negates the need for dye or red spandex) Work Time = 2 days (1 day dye and cutting fabric, 1 day applying applique and rhinestones) Supply Shipping = Dress, Stones, fabric glue, elastic 1 - 5 days Flame Dress (From Scratch) White Power Mesh 1 yard = $6 White Spandex 1 yards = $11 Red Spandex 1 5/8 yards  = $15 Red C

 Continuing with our Mompe Hakama/Karusan-bakama we're going into some of the prep work for construction! See Part 1 for pattern drafting and design stuff .  NOTE : This is currently UNTESTED. I have sewn trousers before and pockets, but not button flies. I'll update this as I learn more with my actual experience. 🙈 Waist Band Closures A challenging part of this is that you WILL need closures. Because this is non-stretch fabric and we are not constructing traditional hakama, we must have an opening so we can get our trousers past our hips and up to our waist. However, I personally did not want to have that "J" shape fly on the front of my hakama and I wanted to have the closures hidden. So how to do this? I have a couple of options.  Buttons on the side Seams - I found a drawing I did where I drew a 1920s aviatrix with pilot pants and it had buttons up the side seams. I can hide the buttons easily enough and it is kind of like sasahida in traditional hakama. And the

Time for a new series! Haven't done one in awhile. It's my plan to share what I've been collecting in my mind for my Hakama. This is stuff to the best of my knowledge which to be fair is based entirely on what I can find in English. I did learn a lot but I don't want to go too in the weeds...like I did when I was looking for info. So, I'm not going to get into history or things like that per se unless it is relevant.  I also limited to the things I wanted to make or thought I was going to make.  There are 4 variations of hakama for this series:   Ando Bakama - this is what I'm wearing for the fox caretaker Hibakama - the miko stuff I'd been studying Hakama - martial arts style, I'm sure it has a specific name...maybe Tatti Hakama, but I don't want to go back to Wikipedia at the moment. 😅  Mompe Hakama /Karusan-bakama - Gathered trouser style hakama, could be used for Demon Slayer cosplay.  Here are the general things I was researching for my costum

 My brain has ping-ponged into all aspects of this costume and for now I'm looking into how to make the Shrine Maiden Costume. I am utilizing all my experience with making kimono and kimono-like costumes to make this. Not really futzing much with the original look.    Design Considerations Accuracy with some flare Making room for puppet arm vs regular arm Simplifying the design so it's not a hassle to wear and keep on (I hate having to worry if my pants will slide off or something.) Pieces/Layers Juban/Undershirt For style points, I'm making this red. The "Puppet" arm may need extra consideration such as an opening in the Juban sleeve at the front or under the arm. I could also do this for both sleeves so I can switch primary puppet arm if I wished.  Kimono This will be a plain color or small patterned top with semi-detached sleeves. The left sleeve will be the primary "puppet sleeve".  The length of the kimono will only come just above the knees...to sa

 When I originally started thinking about a puppet-related costume, I came up with three ideas: Rod/Cable Puppet Kasugai Crow Hand Puppet Goro the Kitsune Walk-along/marionette Kirin/Unicorn The reality is I can't do it all. As you may surmise from the title of this post, my focus for now is on the Goro puppet. Like I said, I had been plotting out all three and have some pretty interesting research results from my time spent figuring out how to make a crow, but I'd be much happier making yet another kitsune. I have the things that I like! And right now, it's Demon Slayer, My Hero Academia, and Kitsune. I'm simple like that.  I'm rambling, aren't I? The Inspiration and Initial Research The character I have in mind is from my visual novel project (6 years so far in the making). He is highly anthropomorphized, expressive, and mischievous. However, I have never made a puppet of this nature so I need to ensure I do not over-complicate the design.  His beast form At t