Modesty's Costume Closet

The obi is supporting actor of a kimono ensemble. They can be equally as extravagant in design motifs and materials. Any design motifs can be woven, embroidered or painted onto the obi. Silk painting being the most formal.   Types of Obi  Kaku Obi - This is typically the Men’s Obi but women can wear it too. Consider it gender neutral. It has a width of 9 - 10 cm (3.5 - 4 inches) and a length between 3.6m - 4m.  Hanhaba Obi - Informal Female Obi, which translates to Half Width because it is half the width of a formal obi. Hanhaba obi are 15 cm wide and 3.6m - 4.5m long (Suggested: 3.80 - 4.20m) (4m - 4.40 m for wider waists). Nagoya Obi - Semi Formal Obi made of stiff fabric or reinforced with a fabric stiffener/interfacing. There are a few ways to make a Nagoya obi (named after the region.) One way is to make the entire obi all one uniform width for the full length. But there are some that are pre-folded to make an Otaiko musubi. So it is half-width for a few yard...

Finally getting around to writing about putting things together. By this point, your kimono panels should be cut and marked with the tailoring points mentioned in the previous post. It's also recommended to put on any design motifs you intend to put on before sewing things together. (Especially if you are painting the fabric. There's a lot less risk of paint dripping on parts you don't intend to have paint on. 😓 She says from experience.) I'll make another post about painting or printing or other methods of putting designs on the kimono. For now here's what this post will attempt to cover:  Sewing Methods Hems and Seams Construction method Further Resources Sewing by Hand or Machine🧵 You can sew your kimono by hand or machine. There are pros and cons of each method.  Sewing by hand is more traditional and offers more control which is very helpful when attaching the collar. The method of hand-sewing developed especially for kimono is called unshin . It takes time t...

Guess what...I feel slightly competent in making kimono! So I'm going to share my process and suggestions for making a kimono for authentic garb or more culturally accurate cosplaying. The scope is limited to a "modern kimono" which includes kimono from the Meiji Era onwards.  Costume version.... ...to authentic version. In this post I will outline my planned posts and list a few expectations:  Overview: Kimono Quick Primer Design Plan for Female Kimono Design Plan for Male Kimono Kimono Measuring and Cutting Kimono Construction Process Making Kimono more Formal Obi and Obi Accessories Footwear and other Accessories Wearing the Kimono (Kitsuke) Expectations Currently, I only know how to make an unlined kimono (hitoe) so that is what these processes will end up being. It is more budget friendly because you won't buy as much fabric. However, it is a blind spot in my knowledge. I have assumptions but no experience in properly making a lined kimono (awase).  The examples ...

 This is going to be the last planned kimono I'm making for this project. There are a few extra things on my to-do list and some things on my wish list too.  Here's how the Wisteria Cat kimono went.  So some things that went well:  French Seams done well! Even on the sleeves! Bless the walking foot! Got the pattern on the fabric to be upright on front and back. Collar went on smoothly! Even hem!! OMG...finally! Some things I wish went better:  I had to make a seam on the shoulder line which is not authentic. :( I did it to make the motif on the pattern look better so I didn't have upside down cats on the back of the body and sleeves. The sleeves are a bit short  I rushed my cutting and it got sloppy making me cut a part I didn't mean to cut and having to fudge around my mistake.  There's a bunch of little extra things I've been doing for these projects. Including kumihimo braiding!  So far I've made:  A kumihimo obijime 3 kumihimo haori himo ...

Duct tape Dummy or a Duct tape mannequin is a quick way to create a replica of your body for all kinds of projects. From being a dress form to creating a pattern, Duct tape dummies (DTD) are incredibly useful for all kinds of costume projects.  However, if you are trying to make a full body DTD, you'll need assistance to make it. It may also destroy some of your clothing in some methods. And you may not feel comfortable making one as it is restrictive.  The primary reasons for making a DTD are to make patterns for clothes or armor. Because it is easy to translate the 3D form into a 2D pattern.  Puppet head covering pattern. Personally, for things like gloves or boot covers, I have no trouble making a DTD of an arm or a leg. But full body I need a different approach.  Method 1: Silhouette Tracing As a kid, I remember having a criminal outline done on banner paper of myself. It is still a viable approach although now I may need to tape pieces of banner paper side by si...

 I bumped up the Polish blend kimono on my project schedule so I could have it done in time for the cultural festival at church. Then I realized the event was in May and not in March like I originally thought. Oh wells, better to get her done.  And while trying to get'er done, I started embroidering on my machine. My original plan was to embroider the patterns directly onto the fabric then sew it together.  That worked for the corner of the sleeves, but then I got to thinking, "perhaps it would be better to sew on some of the other designs after I put things together. After all, my hems tend to be a bit unpredictable in placement." After breaking 2 needles while embroidering the sleeves, I got to thinking again, "perhaps sewing on the finished garment is a bit risky. Going over a seam while embroidering will surely break a needle!" So maybe it would be better to sew on some of the designs as patches. A couple of the designs are very dense and would suit patches ...

The foundation of my other kimono are currently sewn together. I have a few minor things to do with them.  For the black hanjuban, I have to...well...want to hand sew the han eri (collar cover).  For the white nagajuban I am waiting for my emon-nuki to arrive in the mail. (USPS has really been a pill lately. While tracking I saw it was IN my city and now it's in New Mexico. LOGISTICS!?) I decided for my white nagajuban that the han eri will be left un-sewn for now. I'm attaching them with safety pins. Although, I may sew down the plain han eri by hand and leave the more colorful one as a pinned version.  Here are some pictures!  Masculine Hanjuban Back of the collar White Nagajuban.  Nagajuban with embroider ribbon han eri.  Some thoughts about what I learned making these two garments.  Sleeves I have this preconceived notion about the different sleeve construction for male and female juban. I had assumed that the armhole on the main body and on the sl...

So the male kimono projects are fairly straightforward. One will involve fabric paint but I feel much more confident about that aspect now.  Although I am finally working out my own pattern for my hakama trousers. I'll post updates about that when I make them. However, construction will be following what patterns suggest. I'm not going to get creative.  Shinjuro Kimono Pattern/Instructions:  Alice in Cosplayland Kimono  Other References:  Gathered Hakama Hashira Shawl Knitting Pattern Materials : Fabric: Polyester Twill (Wine), Cotton Broadcloth (Black) Needle: Universal 80 Thread: All Purpose Presser Feet: Normal, Blind Hem, Wide Hem, Button Hole Techniques/Methods: French Seam/Felled seam/Pinked Seam Blind Hem My Production Plan Sew Kimono using the pattern instructions but using Billy's sleeve construction method.  Use my own pattern for the Hakama Trousers.  Add pocket pouches to the leg panels.  Sew and serge crotch seam, joining the left and...

The green Polish kimono is still a female tomosode like the others but it includes a haori and uses a hanhaba obi. Also the details on the embroider add an element of complexity. I hope to wear this along with my Polish skirt to my parish's Multicultural Mass and Festival. 🌍 Polish Folk Art Kimono  Pattern/Instructions:  Alice in Cosplayland Kimono  Alice in Cosplayland Haori Other References:  Materials :  Fabric: Polyester Linen Green, Embroidery Stabilizer (tear away), Black Chiffon, Cotton Sateen, Bias Tape Needle: Universal 90/14, Machine Embroidery 90/14, Microtex 70/10, Universal 70/10   Thread: Black All purpose, Black Polyester Fine Techniques/Methods:  Machine Embroidery Bound/Biased Seams Blind Hem My Production Plan:  Digitize my Vector file into an Embroidery File. Mark the Kimono with the sewing lines and mark where embroidery will go.  Set up Kimono Embroidery Files: 3 corner flowers, 1 Tulip, 2 Horses, 2 Cats Embroider t...

 Two of the kimono I'm making are female tomosode or a semi-formal kimonos. They will both have similar steps in terms of construction and not include anything extra like embroidery or a haori. However, they are made with different fabrics which will affect the sewing process.  Gothic Rose Pattern/Instructions  Alice in Cosplayland Kimono  Other References Measurements Hip Circumference: 102cm (40.5")  Mid-back to wrist (Yuki): 66cm (26") Waist Circumference: 30" Height (Mitake): 160 cm (62") Materials Fabric: Crepe de Chine, Polyester Damask, Satin  Needle: Microtex/Sharp 70, Universal 90/14 Thread: 100% Polyester Fine (black), All Purpose (black) Techniques/Methods Hairline Seams Back Seam Reinforcement (Ishiki ate) Chikara Nuno / Mikazuki Blind Hand Stitch Kise Seam My Plans Gather my materials and set up my machine with the Walking Foot Follow the basic instructions for making a kimono mixing the pattern instructions with Billy's videos. I will try to ...

After the juban, I plan on making the one thing that won't use juban! The Yukata. The video will be my main instructions since I also want to make this with a machine. But there are some things I plan to add because it is a white yukata.   Ruka Yukata Pattern/Instructions Alice in Cosplayland Traditional Kimono/Yukata Other Resources:  Ishiki ate  - This is the thing I'm going to add to the yukata. I like to call it the CYA panel. That is partly what it does. In addition to modesty, it is supposed to take some of the pressure off the center back seam when sitting or kneeling in a kimono. So it doesn't get split up the back seam.   It can be a small patch that you blind stitch by hand to the bum area. Or it can take up the whole back two panels. I'm doing the version in between. It will stretch between the 2 back side seams and hang from the uchiage seam.  This CYA panel is typically found on hitoe (unlined kimono) made of thin silks. It can also go int...

Happy New Year! It's time to finally start the 6 projects, starting with the foundation of undergarments. My sewing machine is tuned up and all fixed (apparently it had some corrosion. 😬) Currently, I'm getting over a cold I got while on my vacation so my start has been delayed slightly while I recover. It does give me a little more time to really go over how I plan to construct the garments. So my following posts will be about proposed plans and references for the project.  This is going to be a reference for my plans for making these garments. I may make a more generic planner for anyone to use.  Nagajuban  Pattern/Instructions:  Alice in Cosplay Land: Juban Other Tutorials/References:  Measurement from the video above Small Stay cloth Stay cloth for Collar Material:  Fabric: White Cotton Broadcloth Thread: White All Purpose Needle: Universal Needle Size 80/12 Presser Foot: Normal, Blind Hem Foot, Wide Hem foot Measurements :  Full Length (Mitake): ...

 Two of my kimono projects are men's kimono which are constructed and worn differently than a women's kimono. But the projects are so similar that I'm going to talk about them in one post.  These are "formal" or semi-formal because they will include a haori and hakama. Despite making two they are the same design. I will refer to Kyojuro's Kimono as "Red" and Shinjuro's Kimono as "Rust".  Juban and Kimono For these outfits, I'm using the same juban! A black cotton hanjuban. The length of the juban should be around my hips and the sleeves very short!  You'll note that the sleeves on both kimono are short in length and height when compared to female kimono. Because we're busy fightin' and can't have sleeves in the way! The length of kimono will be above my ankles, but as you may imagine needs to be hiked up to wear hakama. This is often done by tucking the back hem of the kimono into the obi.  Hakama Speaking of Hakama ...

Some of the blogs and videos I've been watching use this kind of folding board that was long and narrow. Perfect for cutting, marking, and sewing Kimono and Obi. I come to learn it's called hera dai. (Google translates it as Spatula Table). Basically, when you use this with a tool called a hera (it is like a resin spatula) you can make indent marks on your kimono fabric instead of using chalk or markers.  From Morio-Hobby.com The closest thing I could find that was similar for Western sewing was this Dritz's cardboard pattern making mat. (I have one!) I like it and just realized I can put pins in it (game changer) but it doesn't stay as flat as I'd hoped. Also, it's made of corrugated cardboard which bends easily and can't get wet.  You might be able to purchase a hera dai by going to a shop in Japan. I did see some online stores, but I don't think they ship these internationally. I haven't seen them on eBay or Etsy either. So, that means I have to m...