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Making a Tsuke-obi/Pre-tied obi

 After much delay, I've finally sat down and tried figuring out how to make a pre-tied obi. Then I found someone who did it fairly well. For feminine costumes, I will explain how to make an Otaiko Tsuke-Obi and a Cho Tsuke-Obi.

Note: I'll link to tutorial on how to put these on. It's hard to explain in writing. But the basic gist is that you tie a wrap around your waist and slide on the musubi. 

Female Tsuke-Obi

I found this image on Pinterest but could not find the original post or instructions. But I figure I could help interpret the image. (If someone does know where the original tutorial is and if there were written instructions, let me know!) Otherwise, you can check out this video for an alternative "no-sew" version of a pre-tied otaiko musubi.

Written Instructions

Illustration by Linda Kole aka Saiya-chan

The Waist Wrap/"Do"

The wrap that goes around your waist is labeled as "Do" in this image, but I will refer to it as waist wrap. This is the base of the obi. It suggests a total length of fabric of 145 cm (about 57 inches) but it also "depends" on your waist size. On a traditional obi, this the part that wraps around your waist twice. So, twice your waist circumference would be a comfortable length for the waist wrap. 

If you have an image or design that you want to show on the front of the obi, it should start with it's placement about 30 cm (12 inches) from the left edge. The design can be up to 40 cm (about 16 inches) before it starts disappearing. 

Now actually making the Waist Wrap. 
  • You will need a length of fabric twice your waist circumference and a width 30 cm  (12 inches). Also have some extra ties or ribbon on hand for securing it to your body. You'll still need interfacing or stabilizer to add some stiffness to the obi.  
  • Apply your stabilizer to the wrong side of your fabric according to the manufacturers instructions. 
  • Turn to the right side of the fabric. Fold lengthwise so the wrong sides are touching.
  • Place the ties on top of the obi along the top fold. The left edge of the left tie should align with the left edge of the obi. The right edge of the right tie should align with the right edge of the obi. The ties should be "reaching towards each other. Pin the ties in place. 
  • Unfold the fabric and stitch the ties/ribbon in place within the seam allowance.
  • Fold the fabric lengthwise with the right side of the fabric touching. 
  • Sew around the edges with seam allowance leaving an opening in the middle. Clip the corners.
  • Turn out the fabric from the opening. Blind stitch the opening closed. That makes the Waist Wrap/"Do". 

The Musubi: Otaiko

The otaiko musubi in the illustration is made of two main pieces of fabric. A horizontal piece labled "tesaki" and a vertical piece labeled "tare". (These are terms use in tying obi that refer to the different ends of the obi.) 
The tesaki measures 45 cm long and about 15 cm wide when finished. 
The tare measures about 90 cm long (give or take) and 30 cm wide. If you have a design you'd like to display it should be 15 cm from the top of the Tare. The design fits between 28 - 32 cm. (Think about fitting it into a 30 x 30 cm square.)

To actually make this you will need.
2 pieces of fabric 45 cm long and 15 cm wide (or 1 piece of fabric 45 cm long and 30 cm wide). 
2 pieces of fabric 90 cm long and 30 cm wide.
Stabilizer for the Tare. 90 cm long and 30 cm wide.
A plastic tab (known as a spoon) about 10 - 12 cm long. 

  1. Place the tesaki pieces together right sides touching. Sew around the edges leaving one of the short ends open. Clip corners and turn out. Slip stitch the opening closed. 
    1. Alternatively, fold the fabric lengthwise with the right sides touching. Sew 1 short end and the length of the fabric. Clip corners and turn out. Slip stitch opening. 
  2. Apply the Stabilizer to the wrong side of one of the Tare pieces. 
  3.  Align the two tare pieces with the right sides together. Sew around the edges, leaving an opening on the top short edge.
  4. Clip corners and turn out. Slip stitch the opening. 
  5. Make a cut through the top layer of the obi for the plastic tab about 5 cm from the edge.
  6. Insert the plastic tab, about 5 - 6 cm should hang out of the slash. 
  7. Make small tucks on the left and right side of the tab opening. Tack these down with a couple of stitches. 
  8. Lay the horizontal piece underneath the vertical piece. The bottom edge of the horizontal piece should be 30 cm from the edge and centered. 
  9. 15 cm from the top of the vertical piece, make a fold towards the inside. This top edge should be under the horizontal piece. You may want to pin this fold to the horizontal piece. 
  10. Measuring down about 31 to 32 cm from that folded edge, start tucking up fabric underneath the vertical piece and underneath the horizontal piece until 10 cm shows at the edge of the fold. Add a couple of pins to hold this in place. (see the illustration above)
  11. The short edges of the horizontal piece should fold in towards the center between the tucked fabric. 
  12. Turn the musubi over and tack the top fold (that has the tab) down through the tucked fabric and horizontal piece. Remove all pins. 
Attaching the musubi
Once you have tied on your waist wrap, slide the plastic tab between the two waist wraps at the center of your back. 
Place an obi makura (pillow) inside the top fold and tie on. 
Use an obi age (scarf) to cover the pillow and tie in front. 
Feed an obi jime (cord) through the loop of the folds keeping it centered. Tie in front. 

The Musubi: Cho/Bunko

This is a fairly common musubi for a casual kimono ensemble. It looks like a big Bow or a Butterfly. 

Here's what you need: 

  • Fabric that matches the waist wrap. 
  • A firm plastic tab or spokes
  • Sewing supplies. 
  • Shoelace or flat ribbon

 

Making a Bow
  1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to half the width of the waist wrap 15 cm (6") wide and 60 cm (24") long.
  2. Fold in half with the right sides touching. 
  3. Sew along the long edges.
  4. Turn right side out and slip stitch the open edge shut. 
  5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the center of the ribbon with fabric that is 15 cm wide (6") and 25cm (10") long.
  6. On the first fabric square, Sew the half-way point of the shoelace/ribbon near the top of the back side of the square with a few stitches. 
  7. Make 3 gather folds on the square and secure with a few stitches. 
  8. With the long piece, attach the Spokes/plastic tab to the wrong side. The tips of the spokes should be pointing up and away from the fabric. 
  9. Overlap the two short ends of the long piece with the top piece on top of the bottom, the wrong side of the top will be against the right side of the bottom edge. Stitch across, above the spokes. 
  10. Hand stitch the other edge to encase the spoke/tab. 

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