Hakama Series - Overview

Time for a new series! Haven't done one in awhile. It's my plan to share what I've been collecting in my mind for my Hakama. This is stuff to the best of my knowledge which to be fair is based entirely on what I can find in English. I did learn a lot but I don't want to go too in the weeds...like I did when I was looking for info. So, I'm not going to get into history or things like that per se unless it is relevant. 

I also limited to the things I wanted to make or thought I was going to make. 

There are 4 variations of hakama for this series:  

1. Ando Bakama - this is what I'm wearing for the fox caretaker
2. Hibakama - the miko stuff I'd been studying
3. Hakama - martial arts style, I'm sure it has a specific name...maybe Tatti Hakama, but I don't want to go back to Wikipedia at the moment. 😅 
4. Mompe Hakama/Karusan-bakama - Gathered trouser style hakama, could be used for Demon Slayer cosplay. 

Here are the general things I was researching for my costume and such. This is just me brain-dumping a bit but it may be of benefit to someone. Individual posts will reiterate some of this stuff as it pertains to that particular style. 

Fabric Types👘

Commonly suggested fabric: 

• Silk (Thai Silk, Dupioni, upcycle an old kimono)
• Hemp
• Cotton/Cotton Blends (I'm using this because it's hot where I live and cotton breathes).
• Linen/Linen Blends
• Lightweight Suit Wool 
• Polyester 

Formal Hakama should be made of silk or Suit Wool. 

Hemp and Cotton great for warm weather or martial arts.

Casual can use any of these fabrics. 

Fabric Colors 🎨

This is something I got hung up on but thankfully figured out. 

Color depends on gender, period/era, and occasion. 

Miko's hakama is always scarlet (hibakama means scarlet hakama). There are other colors worn by different members of the shrine staff and clergy. (As a Catholic, I care a lot about religious colors, people get vestment colors wrong all the time. They constantly wear purple which is only worn during Lent and Advent. Purple Stoles are worn while hearing confessions. I could go on but let's move along).

Dusty blue or a greyish color is reserved for funerals. 

Black and White pinstripe is a men's formal hakama typically worn at weddings. 

If going for a more historic look, certain shades of yellow were reserved for the emperor. (Like Purple in Rome or Indigo blue in the Middle Ages.) 

Andon Bakama worn at graduation can sometimes have embroidery or applique. 

Most Hakama tend to be a solid color without any extra decoration. However, for modern everyday wear, you can use any kind of print or color. Gradients are often a nice effect. 

Pleats 👗

Pleats are a defining feature of hakama. 

Every pleat requires twice the "pleat depth" measurement to make sure you have enough fabric. 

So, 1" pleats need 2" to make. There are some formulas to figure out accurate placement of the pleats, some patterns include this too. But if you fiddle around you'll be able to place them. 

Typically, there are 5 visible pleats in front. Each "mountain fold" counts as a pleat. 

For skirt style hakama, there are 3 visible pleats in the back. For split leg style, there is 1 visible pleat. 

Belts/Himo 🎀

Men's hakama or martial arts style have a little backboard (Koshi-ita). Skirt styles and some of the western-blend style do not have the back board for the belts (himo). 

The thickness of the belts vary based on your size, formality, and gender. Typically the belts are 1.5" - 2" thick. However, some styles of the hibakama have very wide belts that can have some himo straps that are 4" thick. 

There are a few ways to tie hakama based on the style you practice. I'll have a few examples in each individual post. 

However, some of my suggestions for a more costume version will only have decorative himo/belts. 

Sasahida/Side Openings 🙈

The sides of hakama are open and you can see the kimono underneath. The length and width can vary by style but it should fall about 1/3 of your waist to ankle length or about mid-thigh. 

Obviously, even with kimono that may make you feel uncomfortable so I made a post about optional "modesty panels" or Antique Detachable Pockets that you can use to cover the sides. This would not be the traditional way to do things but I go a little crazy if I don't have pockets on my pants. 

Length 📏

Depends on your shoes and formality of the occasion! Typically, for zori or geta, the hem of the hakama falls at or below your ankle. For something that's active-wear it should be a bit above your ankle. If you wear ankle boots, heels, or western style shoes, it should be above the ankle. 

Very formal hakama can kiss the floor or sometimes get dragged on it. But that's an old style. 

How Much Fabric? ✂

Split leg hakama need more than skirt hakama. I've gotten away with 2 yards for skirts but trouser style it's usually a minimum of 4 yards. 

To figure out how much you need, you'll need your waist circumference and the length from your waist to ankle. 

To know what size fabric bolt you need, you'll need the Waist to Ankle measurement + hem + (thickness of the belt * 2). 

For width, you'll need your circumference measurement + number of pleats * (pleat depth *2) + Seam allowance. 

I'll go into more detail on each project. 

Authenticity 🗾

An Authentic look and construction is always my ideal. However, my own limitations mean I have to make adjustments to my skill level and available resources. For example, I'm not about to hand-sew everything. These are old clothes made with modern methods. 

I suppose accuracy would be a better way to describe what I mean. Basically, if you are designing an outfit remember the real thing can be inspiration. That is design. I like having lots of historical or cultural limitations when I design but looking at character designs that are inspired by historical costumes are also not accurate. It's more romantic usually. 

All this to say, (mostly to myself), try not to be overly nit-picky about your designs being historically accurate when making a fantasy character. 

Available Patterns

So, by default, there really isn't a pattern because it's rectangles of cloth folded in certain ways. Origami pants. However, you can find commercial and indie patterns that can help you place the pleats or make a more accurate hakama. I'll list specific ones in the individual posts, but here are the ones I know about: 

• McCall's M7525 (PDF only. Out of print) 
• Simplicity 8318 (discontinued)
• Taeliac's Fakama (Fake Hakama - free PDF)
• Folkware Kataginu and Hakama (highly recommended)

So this series will include: 

• Ando Bakama - Simple Skirt Style
• Hibakama - Miko/Shrine Maiden Skirt
• Men's Style - trouser leg style
• Mompe Hakama - Gathered leg trouser style