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Hakama Series - Side Opening Covers/Pockets

The side openings on hakama can feel a bit exposing if you're not wearing a full kimono underneath or perhaps you just can't stand to be without pockets! While these things are not necessarily historically accurate for the area, you can make it work. 

Modesty Panels

These will be panels of fabric that hang from your waist at your sides where the openings of the hakama are. You can choose to attach these to the belts (himo) of your hakama or to make your own waistband. 

You can use any kind of cloth but the idea is to use any left over clothe from making your hakama. But if you want different colors or prints go for it. 

You will cut a rectangle with rounded corners that is 16" tall and about an inch wider than your side openings (sasahida). To keep it from fraying, either use a serger or overlock machine to finish the edges except at the top. Alternatively, use a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine all around the edges except the top.. 

Make a waistband from elastic if you want and put it on. 

Then put on your hakama.  Time to mark out where on the belt you need to place the modesty panel. 

Hold the top of the panel against your waist over the sasahida.  Pin it to either your elastic wasitband or to the himo attached to the front panel of the hakama.  Then take off the hakama and or waist band. Mark where the pins are and remove the modesty panel. 

Line up the raw edge of the panel to the bottom, inside edge of the waistband/himo between the pins the bottom of the modesty panel should be pointed up. Sew down the panel then fold it down. Press the fold. 

And that should do it! 

Antique Pockets

Sidenote: This McCall's pattern actually makes a closed sided hakama with pockets! So, you CAN design your Hakama to use actual pockets if you prefer. I was unclear how to make this happen myself so that's why I am making this tutorial on portable pockets. 

Another Side Note: You can also find sewing patterns for 18th Century Pockets on sites like Etsy if you prefer or follow these instructions: Tie-on Pockets.


Now Onto my method!

You cane make one or two pockets and either make them on their own belt or attach them directly to the himo on the hakama. 

Shape and Pocket orientation

Typically these are vertical openings, however, can add a kangaroo pocket. 

Supplies

  • Fabric
  • Lining fabric
  • Bias tape (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Marking tool (Chalk, washable pen, etc)
  • Pins
Note: If you want to add applique or embroidery, do so before cutting fabric.
  1. Cut your fabric into a semi-tear drop shape. It should be long and wide enough to cover the side opening of your hakama. 
  2. For the part that will have the pocket opening, cut a vertical slit 1/3 the way down. Do the same for the lining.
  3. Start with the lining. Put the right sides of the fabric together and sew around the outer edge from the top corner around the bottom to the other top corner. The top and slit remain unstitched. 
  4. For the outer fabric, put the right sides together and sew around the outer edge from the top corner around the bottom to the other top corner. Leave the top edge and slit open. 
  5. Put the main fabric bag inside the lining. Line up the slits. 
  6. Stitch the lining and fabric together by going around the top edge and down the slit. The stitches should look like a rectangle around the vertical slit. Snip the corners of the slit. 
  7. Turn the bag out so the main fabric is on the outside. 
    1. Optionally use ribbon or bias tape around the outer edge of the bag or on the pocket opening. Stitch it down.
  8. Get your belt tie. Ideally you will sandwich the top of the pocket back into the belt tie. However, you can also place the tie over the front of the bag along the top. Align the raw edge of the bag with the top edge of the tie. Stitch it down along the top and bottom edge of the tie. 
And that's a basic pocket bag. If you want it to have a horizontal kangaroo pouch. Make another cut of outer fabric that only covers the bottom portion.  Hem or Bias tape the top edge. Sew it wrong side of the kangaroo pouch to the right side of the front pocket bag. Then continue the above steps as if the front of the bag is one piece. 

You can tie this on before putting on an obi or over the obi or over the himo of your hakama. 

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