Hakama Series - Mompe Hakama/Karusan-bakama (Gathered Trousers) Part 1

The defining feature besides the pleats are the gathered portion of the trouser leg. I feel these can be the most complicated of the Hakama. So, I will have multiple posts. This post will go over design elements, other patterns, measurements, and pattern drafting. The next post will go into sewing instructions. 

Update: Recently learned that Mompe is usually worn by female laborers and Karusan-bakama are the more ballooning type hakama seen in Demon Slayer. I will go over sewing for Karusan-bakama. Just wanted to make sure I had my facts on straight. 

It still gathers at the ankle.

You can see examples of this style of hakama in: Demon Slayer, Spirited Away, and Inuyasha. 

Two Versions 

So once again there is a more traditional look to these and a more western style to them. I'm leaning toward making this Demon Slayer style which definitely takes a more Western approach. However, the video that helped inspire this post shows a more Eastern Style with ties and sasahida if you prefer. It would work better for Spirited Away or Inuyasha cosplay. 

Patterns

In addition to the the pattern/sew-along linked above, you can find a good pattern for Demon Slayer inspired Hakama. I highly recommend NDLWorkshop's Japanese Uniform Bundle. They also have a video on constructing the hakama: 

My instructions are different than both of these patterns. Because I must continue to emphasize how much I hate installing zippers. Sleeves and Zippers...my weak points! 

Design Elements

Hakama Length

These are going to be shorter in length definitely coming above the ankle. The legs of this hakama are also more narrowed towards the bottom so heads up the pant leg shape is going to be different than other Hakama in this series.  

Note: you don't HAVE to make the leg narrower near the bottom but it does make for a less bulky bunching at the bottom. You can also make these into hakama "shorts" like in Spirited Away. The length will go just below your knees. 

Colors

I think there isn't any color limitations.  Historically, it's likely going to be just a solid color.  But you could go with a print pattern if you are going for a modern look or simply designing your own character.

Waist Band/Fasteners

You could go traditional style and make ties with open sides like the video above. 

To go more Western style, it is likely going to be a trouser front which means the front seam will be open part way down then fastened closed. Historically, this was likely done with a button fly, however a zipper fly is a legit way to do this. 

This opening + fastener can go on any seam. (There are four: front, back, left and right sides.) So if you prefer to make it look seamless, you can use an invisible zipper.

However, if you're like me and absolutely hate installing zippers or dealing with fasteners, then there are other waistband styles that can work. When I first made a trouser style Hakama, I used a 3" thick flat elastic band. Elastic or stretch fabric make an easy to slide on pair of pants.  Another method to try would be a cincher style...kind of like pajama pants with pull strings.  All these methods will cause bunching around the waist though and not be ideal for somethings more authentic.

Sides

You can choose to have open, closed or pocketed sides! Just note that if you plan on pockets, then your fastening should be done in the back or front seams. 

Pleats

This version of hakama does not have a standard number of pleats or a standard depth. I still like using 1" pleat depth so I know I need 2" per pleat. For Demon Slayer style hakama, there are 4 pleats in front and 2 pleats in the back. Since the pattern is divided into 4 pieces that means there are 2 pleats per front piece and 1 pleat per back piece. The front and back seams are visible! They also maintain a hakama style low crotch which I appreciate. 

Ankle Cinchers

The lower hem of the legs for this hakama need to be gathered. There are a few methods to accomplish this. 

Ankle Finish Examples

• Elastic hem - a modern way to do it. Create a casing at the lower hem and sew in an elastic ring.
• Stretch Fabric Cuff - another modern method is using an elastic/stretch fabric cuff. 
• Pull Ties/Cincher - a bit more historical. It's like pulls for a hoodie. You create a casing and run a tie through it. Then pull and tie off to gather. 
• Non-Stretch Cuff with fasteners - This method needs a way for you to get your foot through so velcro, buttons, snaps or hook and eyes would work. (Kind of like a dress shirt that has buttons on the cuff.) 
• Wrap Ties - In this method you would simply hem the leg panels, then use ties around your ankle and/or knee to cinch up the pant leg. Also a historical method. 

Measurements Needed

We leave the simplicity of needing 2 measurements to needing MANY more. 

A - Hip Circumference

B - Waist Circumference

C - Waist to Ankle Length *

D - Ankle Circumference

E - Crotch depth **

F -  Optional Knee Circumference (for making Stretch fabric cinchers)

* This will be Waist to below the Knee measurement if using the stretch fabric cinchers or hakama shorts.  

**This is a standard measurement of 15", but if you have longer legs you can make it longer. 

Fabric 

You'll likely be using a solid color fabric in one of the following fabric types: 

• Silk
• Cotton/Cotton Blend
• Poplin
• Polyester
• Linen
• Light Suiting Wool 

Or some kind of tightly woven fabric that can hold a pleat! 

For the stretch cinchers, I recommend a Jersey knit, nylon, lycra or matte spandex.

How Much Fabric?

This is going to require a pattern draft to get the right shapes but everything starts with rectangles. This will at least give you an estimate. 

The way to calculate how much you'll need is: 

C + Hem + Waist Band Thickness  + Ease (optional) = (Total length)

A + Front Pleat fabric + Back Pleat Fabric + (Seam Allowance * 8) + Ease = (Total width)

Tip: If your waist is wider than your hips, use that measurement instead of your Hip measurement. 

So my measurements: 

38 + 2" hem + (2" * 2 for total waist band thickness ) + 2" ease = 46" for leg length

44" + (4 * 2") + (2 * 2") + (.75 * 8) + 2" ease = 64" total width.

So the total amount of fabric I'd need is 64" x 46". 

The tricky bit is translating this to yards and bolt size. And it will depend on how you layout the pattern pieces. See I could make the length of the leg on the crossgrains of the fabric (which is usually the bolt height). If I get a bolt that is 58"/60" tall that could work. Then I'd would need the yardage which is 64÷36 = 1.78 yards (or 2 because prefer whole numbers and need extra fabric for pockets.) 

However, the nicer way to make these is making the length of the leg go with the grain of the fabric. Which requires a bit more calculation. So here we go. 

The pattern is made from 4 rectangles in total. 2 for the front and 2 for the back. So calculate a front and back rectangle. 

A÷4 + Front Pleats + Seam allowance * 2 = front rectangle width

A÷4 + Back Pleats + Seam Allowance * 2 = back rectangle width 

C + Hem + waistband thickness still accounts for the length of both rectangles. 

So my front panels are (44÷4) + (2" * 2 pleats) + 1.5 = 16.5" wide 

And my back panels are (44÷4) + (2" * 1 pleat) + 1.5 = 14.5" wide

So I need to fit 2 rectangles that are 16.5" wide and 46" long and two that are 14.5" wide and 46" long onto fabric. 

Example layout

Using this rough guide as a layout, I know that I can fit two rectangles side by side and it should fit into the height of the bolt. (16.5" + 14.5" = 31" which is less than 45" of bolt height. Heck 16 .5+ 16.5 = 37 is also less than 45" so that can also work!) The yardage is determined by twice the length of each leg 46 * 2 = 92". Divide that by 36 to get yardage and we get 2.56 yards needed. 

Note: This layout is not how I would layout the pattern pieces to cut. I would need the final shape of the pattern pieces plus extra for pockets. 

Now this is for rough estimates, you can also perhaps get a good idea of what yardage you'd need by looking up a pattern for wide leg trousers in your size and see if it matches. 

Pattern Drafting

So this is based off of basic trouser drafting and is currently untested so feel free to do a bit of research or make some mockups. You can also use the draft pattern that is used in Billy's video linked above. 

A pleat measurement is (Pleat Depth * 2) * Number of Pleats. For example, (1" *2) = 2" needed per pleat. If a section has 2 pleats, I will need 2" * 2 for a total of 4" extra.  

You will need: Pattern paper/Wrapping paper, Straight Edge Ruler or yardstick, Pencil, Markers in different colors, French curve (optional you can eyeball it or rough it.) 

Calculating Pattern Measurements

Do this beforehand to make the pattern drafting easier. Write down these measurements:

A = Hip Circumference (including Pleat measurements) ÷ 4 + 3" (ease and seam allowance) = Hip Line

B = Waist Circumference ÷ 4 + 3"(seam allowance and ease) +  Pleat Measurement = Waist line

C = Waist to Hem length 

D = Waist to Knee measurement

E = Ankle Circumference ÷ 2  + 3" ease and seam allowance = Ankle Width (it will be bigger than your ankle on purpose)

F = 15" to 19" (15" is the standard or 19" if you'll wear it with a longer kimono. Ideally it should be about mid-thigh.)

For my measurements: 

A = 62 ÷ 4 + 3" = 18.5"

B = 32 ÷ 4  + (4" for front, 2" per back piece) = 12" Front, 10" back

C = 38"

D = 21"

E = 8" ÷ 2  + 3 = 7"

F = 15" 

Pattern Draft Process

1. Draw a vertical line starting 3 inches from the top of your pattern paper and about 5 inches away from the long side. The vertical line should be the length of Measurement C. 
2. You will draw four horizontal lines from this vertical line to right edge of the paper. The Waist Line (top of the line), the Crotch Line (F), the Knee Line (D), and the Ankle Line (C). Use your length measurements to locate where on the vertical line to place them.
   
   
   
   
   
3. On the crotch line, mark out Measurement A. Draw a vertical line up from the Measurement A to the Waist Line. (This line is only meant to be a reference, you will erase it later.) On the Ankle line, mark out Measurement E
   
   
   
   
   
4. Okay, now for the crotch curve. This is a bit tricky and I'll admit I'm using estimates and guesswork. Going to the corner of that vertical hip line and waist line, measure 3/4" to the left and make a mark. Connect that mark with a diagonal line down to the hip width mark on the crotch line. 
5. Measure 2.5" up that diagonal line and make a mark. Measure 2" to the right of the Measurement A and make a mark. 
6. Ideally, you'll use a tool called a French curve to connect these two points. However, you can try to sketch it out instead. 
   
   
   
   
   
7. From the edge of the crotch curve make a vertical line down to the knee line. 
8. From that point on the knee line make a diagonal line toward the Ankle Width mark.
9. From the top edge of the crotch curve, measure to the left Measurement B. 
10. From measurement B, make a diagonal line down to the corner of the Ankle line. 

You should have a pattern piece that kind of looks like this: 

Not to scale and not super accurate either. 

Back Leg Pattern

1. You will use many of the same measurements for the back leg but there are some differences. Get a new sheet of paper and trace the vertical line and the 4 horizontal lines. 
2. Mark Ankle width(E) on the ankle line. And mark A on the crotch line. 
3. Draw a vertical line from point A to 1.5" above the Waistline
4. Go left from this point about 3/4" and make a diagonal line to point A. 
5. Go 1.5" up the diagonal line and make a mark. Then go 2" to the right of point A and make a mark. 
6. With a French curve, connect the mark on the diagonal line to the point right of point A. 
7. Make a vertical line down to the knee line from the new point to the right of Point A. 
8. Make a diagonal line from the knee line to the ankle width (E). 

For reference, this video for wide leg trousers will also work. 

I've made my drafted patterns and will sew them eventually. I'll likely wait until after Halloween. 

See Part 2 for construction.