Happy New Year! It's time to finally start the 6 projects, starting with the foundation of undergarments. My sewing machine is tuned up and all fixed (apparently it had some corrosion. 😬) Currently, I'm getting over a cold I got while on my vacation so my start has been delayed slightly while I recover. It does give me a little more time to really go over how I plan to construct the garments. So my following posts will be about proposed plans and references for the project.
This is going to be a reference for my plans for making these garments. I may make a more generic planner for anyone to use.
Nagajuban
Pattern/Instructions:
Other Tutorials/References:
Material:
- Fabric: White Cotton Broadcloth
- Thread: White All Purpose
- Needle: Universal Needle Size 80/12
- Presser Foot: Normal, Blind Hem Foot, Wide Hem foot
Measurements:
- Full Length (Mitake): 160 cm (62")
- Center Back to Wrist (Yuki): 62 cm (25")
- Waist Circumference:73.6 cm (29 ")
- Hip Circumference: 103 cm (40.5")
Methods/Techniques:
- Basting
- Serging/Overlock
- Hand-stitch
- Blind Hemming
My Production Plans:
- Gather and prepare my materials
- Follow the instructions with the pattern using a basting stitch on my sewing machine
- Set up my Serger for a narrow 3-thread hem to finish the seams.
- Hem the sleeve opening and sleeve edges with a top stitch using the blind hem foot as a guide.
- Fold seams and press to put in the kise.
- Sew wide hem at the bottom of garment with the wide hem foot (need to calculate how much after constructing and trying it on a bit.)
- Sew sleeves according to Billy's Video and insert.
- Create Mikazuki and pin along with the collar edge on the shoulder fold.
- Sew on collar with machine.
- Insert stabilizer along the back neck bit.
- Fold over and top stitch down.
- Hand Sew Han Eri over the collar.
- Make a emmonuki for shaping the collar and attach to the back.
- Create a 2nd Han Eri. Press the folds and top stitch the short edges. Blanket stitch on the embroidered ribbon. It will be attached with safety pins.
Kitsuke Kit:
Kimono Bra/Hadagi
Erishin
Korin Belt
Datejime
Hanjuban
Pattern/Instructions: Same as Nagajuban but using the instructions for men's juban.
Other Tutorials/References:
Measurements/Sewing Lines from Video above. |
Material:
- Fabric: 100% Cotton Broadcloth Black
- Thread: Black All Purpose
- Needle: Universal 80
- Presser Feet: Blind Hem foot, Wide Hem foot, Normal
Measurements: Same as Nagajuban
Except Yuki is shorter: 56.5 cm or 22"
Methods/Techniques:
- Blind hem
- Serged Seams/Pinked Seams
- Kise (2mm Fold covering seam)
My Plans:
- Gather my materials and mark sewing lines
- Follow the instructions using the basting stitch
- Finish seams with Serger machine
- Fold seams to make kise.
- Hem the sleeve openings and the bottom.
- Make and attach sleeves
- Attach collar Men's style with top stitching. Add stabilizer to the back of the neck and larger stay cloth.
Kitsuke Kit:
- Kimono Bra/Breast Binder
- Shoulder Pads
- Waist padding
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