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Kimono Project: Juban Planner

Happy New Year! It's time to finally start the 6 projects, starting with the foundation of undergarments. My sewing machine is tuned up and all fixed (apparently it had some corrosion. 😬) Currently, I'm getting over a cold I got while on my vacation so my start has been delayed slightly while I recover. It does give me a little more time to really go over how I plan to construct the garments. So my following posts will be about proposed plans and references for the project. 

This is going to be a reference for my plans for making these garments. I may make a more generic planner for anyone to use. 

Nagajuban 

Pattern/Instructions: 



Other Tutorials/References: 

Measurement from the video above

Material: 
  • Fabric: White Cotton Broadcloth
  • Thread: White All Purpose
  • Needle: Universal Needle Size 80/12
  • Presser Foot: Normal, Blind Hem Foot, Wide Hem foot
Measurements: 
  • Full Length (Mitake): 160 cm (62")
  • Center Back to Wrist (Yuki): 62 cm (25")
  • Waist Circumference:73.6 cm (29 ")
  • Hip Circumference: 103 cm (40.5")
Methods/Techniques:
  • Basting
  • Serging/Overlock 
  • Hand-stitch
  • Blind Hemming
My Production Plans:
  1. Gather and prepare my materials
  2. Follow the instructions with the pattern using a basting stitch on my sewing machine
  3. Set up my Serger for a narrow 3-thread hem to finish the seams.
  4. Hem the sleeve opening and sleeve edges with a top stitch using the blind hem foot as a guide. 
  5. Fold seams and press to put in the kise.
  6. Sew wide hem at the bottom of garment with the wide hem foot (need to calculate how much after constructing and trying it on a bit.)
  7. Sew sleeves according to Billy's Video and insert. 
  8. Create Mikazuki and pin along with the collar edge on the shoulder fold. 
  9. Sew on collar with machine.
  10. Insert stabilizer along the back neck bit.
  11. Fold over and top stitch down. 
  12. Hand Sew Han Eri over the collar. 
  13. Make a emmonuki for shaping the collar and attach to the back. 
  14. Create a 2nd Han Eri. Press the folds and top stitch the short edges. Blanket stitch on the embroidered ribbon. It will be attached with safety pins. 
Kitsuke Kit: 
Kimono Bra/Hadagi
Erishin
Korin Belt
Datejime 

Hanjuban 

Pattern/Instructions: Same as Nagajuban but using the instructions for men's juban.

Other Tutorials/References: 
Measurements/Sewing Lines from Video above.

Material: 
  • Fabric: 100% Cotton Broadcloth Black
  • Thread: Black All Purpose
  • Needle: Universal 80
  • Presser Feet: Blind Hem foot, Wide Hem foot, Normal
Measurements: Same as Nagajuban
Except Yuki is shorter: 56.5 cm or 22"

Methods/Techniques: 
  • Blind hem
  • Serged Seams/Pinked Seams
  • Kise (2mm Fold covering seam)
My Plans:
  1. Gather my materials and mark sewing lines
  2. Follow the instructions using the basting stitch
  3. Finish seams with Serger machine
  4. Fold seams to make kise. 
  5. Hem the sleeve openings and the bottom. 
  6. Make and attach sleeves
  7. Attach collar Men's style with top stitching. Add stabilizer to the back of the neck and larger stay cloth. 
Kitsuke Kit: 
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