Modesty's Costume Closet

The obi is supporting actor of a kimono ensemble. They can be equally as extravagant in design motifs and materials. Any design motifs can be woven, embroidered or painted onto the obi. Silk painting being the most formal.   Types of Obi  Kaku Obi - This is typically the Men’s Obi but women can wear it too. Consider it gender neutral. It has a width of 9 - 10 cm (3.5 - 4 inches) and a length between 3.6m - 4m.  Hanhaba Obi - Informal Female Obi, which translates to Half Width because it is half the width of a formal obi. Hanhaba obi are 15 cm wide and 3.6m - 4.5m long (Suggested: 3.80 - 4.20m) (4m - 4.40 m for wider waists). Nagoya Obi - Semi Formal Obi made of stiff fabric or reinforced with a fabric stiffener/interfacing. There are a few ways to make a Nagoya obi (named after the region.) One way is to make the entire obi all one uniform width for the full length. But there are some that are pre-folded to make an Otaiko musubi. So it is half-width for a few yard...

There are a few things you can do to increase the formality of the kimono. Most of these things you should consider in the PLANNING phase before you start measuring and cutting.   Fabric Fiber Choice One of the hallmarks of a formal kimono is the fabric type. You will not find a formal cotton kimono. All formal kimono are silk. And usually a NICE silk too. Silk with "shlubs" like silk dupioni are a less formal silk even in polyester form. A nice silk is smooth or has a purposeful design in the weave. However, even if you have a nice silk if it has a komon pattern it's not considered formal...it's just a very nice informal outfit.  Sleeve Height (Feminine Only) Furisode sleeve heights vary which affects the occasion and formality level.  Ko Furisode has a height of 75 - 80 cm long when finished. This type of furisode was worn as a school uniform back in the early 1900s, so it's good for that kind of historical outfit and some cosplay. In modern day, this is only wo...

Finally getting around to writing about putting things together. By this point, your kimono panels should be cut and marked with the tailoring points mentioned in the previous post. It's also recommended to put on any design motifs you intend to put on before sewing things together. (Especially if you are painting the fabric. There's a lot less risk of paint dripping on parts you don't intend to have paint on. 😓 She says from experience.) I'll make another post about painting or printing or other methods of putting designs on the kimono. For now here's what this post will attempt to cover:  Sewing Methods Hems and Seams Construction method Further Resources Sewing by Hand or Machine🧵 You can sew your kimono by hand or machine. There are pros and cons of each method.  Sewing by hand is more traditional and offers more control which is very helpful when attaching the collar. The method of hand-sewing developed especially for kimono is called unshin . It takes time t...