Modesty's Costume Closet

 We have confirmation that I will be partaking in Smooth for the mini-match.  But I'm going to do the cost analysis for both because I'm feeling  both. Let's start with the current plan.  Modified Flame Dress  Base Dress = $115 Rit Dye Synthetic = ~$11 each (I need 2 Red and Orange) Metallic Spandex .25 Yard of Red = ~$4 Gold/Bronze = Owned $0 (or $4 each) Fire Opal Rhinestones = $5 - $6 Siam Red Rhinestones = $5 - $6 White Rhinestones = Owned $0 Fabric Spray Glue = $10 New Base Dress = $60 Red Elastic = $5  Alt: Found a dress in the color scheme and base design that I like for only $60 and free shipping.  Potential Total = $153 - $170 Alt Cost = $82  (This also negates the need for dye or red spandex) Work Time = 2 days (1 day dye and cutting fabric, 1 day applying applique and rhinestones) Supply Shipping = Dress, Stones, fabric glue, elastic 1 - 5 days Flame Dress (From Scratch) White Power Mesh 1 yard = $6 White Spandex 1 yards = $11 Red Spand...

  It started with the Theme of dancing to America's The Last Unicorn. My design was based off themes in the film The Last Unicorn. And to that end, the final product was a success.  Here is what I was happiest with:  The costume felt stable and easy to move in. Nothing was loose or felt like it could fall off.  The crown and veil prop worked flawlessly The chiffon flutter sleeves and pants looked dramatic!  I was able to finish with time to spare! Things I wish were better:  I cut the wrong size for the purple surcoat dress.  The clasps were so expensive!  My crochet top was too small.  I was a bit clumsy sewing the extra doo-dads on the top. (I was going to use SOME of my crochet so help me!)  The shimmery organza did not drape how I thought so no extra shimmer happened and I wasted fabric. 😭 I didn't hem my chiffon so it started to fray Day of the Performance I neglect to remember how wide my hips are at all times. Thankfully, I unint...

 Shame on me for not posting sooner, but the Unicorn dance costume was a success! (A proper post-mortem will come later.)  However, I've decided to enter my first competition. Just a mini-match for now but I will need a dress for it. Which of course, is very exciting when it comes to "what should I wear?" I've been Pinning ideas for different dress shapes, colors and designs and maybe overwhelming myself. So, it's time to hit pause and layout some design considerations as well as practical ones. Let's start with practical.  Practical Considerations - Budget and Investment These are the pillars of practical decisions for costumes (and other creative things): Budget and Investment.  Budget = what you can spend/spare in terms of time, money, space, and energy. Basically it's what you have on hand already.  Investment = what you can put into a project in terms of time, money, space, and energy. It's more about capacity. My analogy of this is Investment is ...

The Goro puppet project has been going on quietly in the background. It is a learning experience and some things are going very much to plan while other things are decidedly not.  My first positive is the back scales:  I was able to crochet the back in a few hours. (Not in one sitting mind you.) I mixed metal with plastic scales which has a fun effect. I still have some left over plastic scales that I could sew into the body but I like how this looks.  Victory 2: Body Structure While the head has been my main focus I was able to take a break from that and morph some EVA foam sheets into a makeshift skeleton for the body.  Positive 3: Started the yarn tails to see how they'll look compared to the body size. I've done this before so feel confident that I can do it again.  Positive 4: While I did burn myself with hot glue, I made some ears with minky, stiff felt, and a bit of faux fur. I even painted them so the markings are correct.  Positive 5: Mouth contruc...

 Continuing with our Mompe Hakama/Karusan-bakama we're going into some of the prep work for construction! See Part 1 for pattern drafting and design stuff .  Waist Band Closures A challenging part of this is that you WILL need closures. Because this is non-stretch fabric and we are not constructing traditional hakama, we must have an opening so we can get our trousers past our hips and up to our waist. However, I personally did not want to have that "J" shape fly on the front of my hakama and I wanted to have the closures hidden. So how to do this? I have a couple of options.  Buttons on the side Seams - I found a drawing I did where I drew a 1920s aviatrix with pilot pants and it had buttons up the side seams. I can hide the buttons easily enough and it is kind of like sasahida in traditional hakama. And the sides are usually not in focus or covered by haori. The downside is that it can interfere with the set in pockets. (Still possible.) Hidden Button Fly - It will add ...

The defining feature besides the pleats are the gathered portion of the trouser leg. I feel these can be the most complicated of the Hakama. So, I will have multiple posts. This post will go over design elements, other patterns, measurements, and pattern drafting. The next post will go into sewing instructions.  Update : Recently learned that Mompe is usually worn by female laborers and Karusan-bakama are the more ballooning type hakama seen in Demon Slayer. I will go over sewing for Karusan-bakama. Just wanted to make sure I had my facts on straight.  It still gathers at the ankle. You can see examples of this style of hakama in: Demon Slayer, Spirited Away, and Inuyasha.  Two Versions  So once again there is a more traditional look to these and a more western style to them. I'm leaning toward making this Demon Slayer style which definitely takes a more Western approach. However, the video that helped inspire this post shows a more Eastern Style with ties ...

The side openings on hakama can feel a bit exposing if you're not wearing a full kimono underneath or perhaps you just can't stand to be without pockets! While these things are not necessarily historically accurate for the area, you can make it work.  Modesty Panels These will be panels of fabric that hang from your waist at your sides where the openings of the hakama are. You can choose to attach these to the belts (himo) of your hakama or to make your own waistband.  You can use any kind of cloth but the idea is to use any left over clothe from making your hakama. But if you want different colors or prints go for it.  You will cut a rectangle with rounded corners that is 16" tall and about an inch wider than your side openings (sasahida). To keep it from fraying, either use a serger or overlock machine to finish the edges except at the top. Alternatively, use a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine all around the edges except the top..  Make a waistband fro...