Skip to main content

Goro Puppet: Paws for Consideration

I was revisiting some of my sketches for Goro's fox form that I made awhile ago.  The first image is the ideal look I want for the puppet except the front paws aren't quite right. 



The correct vibe and anatomy.
Wrong face, but correct front paws.
The character concept for Goro is a dragon-blooded kitsune. This is why he has scales down his back and more dragon-like front paws. However, I must consider how to make this in puppet form!
There are few things these front paws need to do: 
  1. Support the puppet by hooking into my clothes with claws
  2. Have a bit of weight to hold it in place
  3. Keep a round, finger paw shape
  4. Support the wire frame and remain posable

Method 1: Sewing

The easiest method would be to simply sew and stuff the paws more like a lizard or frog. This would give them the correct shape. The downside is that squishy front paws won't "hook" onto my clothes as easily because stuffing deforms. Even if the claw portions are a hardened material, it won't distribute the weight enough. Although, I could stuff them with weighted pellets which would make them firmer than stuffing with fluff. 

Method 2: Art Doll Posable Fingers

This is based on a method for making dragon art dolls as seen by BubbleLeaf here: 


This would include a portion made out of Resin or Polymer Clay in the claw area. This is very firm! It would hold it shape and hook in easily! However, it's a bit tedious to hand sew every toe. 

Method 3: Hollow Forms

In this method, I would create the shape of the claw and finger pad with a thermal plastic (or UV resin). The claw portion would be solid but the finger pad would be like a small cup. This will help the paw keep it shape and if I fill the paw with pellets they would be heavy enough. This gives the paw a soft feeling while still having enough weight to hold. 

Of these three methods I think I prefer the Art Doll method the most since I have see someone else do it successfully. The other puppets of this kind have sculpted claws that are NOT posable so I think I've added some complication that may end up being my downfall. But we shall see. The hollow form has potential and would use less material and work well with the wire frame. 

I also have to keep in mind that most of Goro's structure will be wire frames and quilt batting and EVA foam. 

Side note: The back paws are proper canine back paws so I'm most likely to sew this like a normal paw and use needle sculpting to get the right shape and toe distinction. But I'll delve into some research about different ways I could approach these too. 
Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Hakama Series - Side Opening Covers/Pockets

The side openings on hakama can feel a bit exposing if you're not wearing a full kimono underneath or perhaps you just can't stand to be without pockets! While these things are not necessarily historically accurate for the area, you can make it work.  Modesty Panels These will be panels of fabric that hang from your waist at your sides where the openings of the hakama are. You can choose to attach these to the belts (himo) of your hakama or to make your own waistband.  You can use any kind of cloth but the idea is to use any left over clothe from making your hakama. But if you want different colors or prints go for it.  You will cut a rectangle with rounded corners that is 16" tall and about an inch wider than your side openings (sasahida). To keep it from fraying, either use a serger or overlock machine to finish the edges except at the top. Alternatively, use a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine all around the edges except the top..  Make a waistband fro...
Post a Comment
Read more

Kimono Series: Measure & Cutting the Kimono

This is the primary benefit to making your own kimono, having it tailored to you! In this post, I will go over the following:  Body Measurements you need Names of the Panels and their dimensions Calculating Fabric needs Tailoring points And a few tips and resources With measurements there are major and minor measurements. Focus on the major measurements for calculating fabric amount and the size and shape of the panel pieces. The minor measurements are mostly for construction so you put the pieces together correctly and they fall in the right place for your body. Lets start with the measurements you need to take on the body.  Body Measurements There are only 3 body measurements for kimono, although they will differ slightly between a masculine and feminine kimono. You need:  Yuki  - a measurement taken from the spine at the base of the neck to the shoulder joint, then to the wrist while holding the arm at a 45° angle. (You CAN T-Pose it but it is a little less accura...
Post a Comment
Read more

Becoming a Kitsune: Tail Design Considerations

The key element of a kitsune character is the tail (or tails in most cases). You'll need to determine what you want the tail to look like so you can determine the best method of attachment. The primary consideration for attachment is weight . The things that affect weight are size and materials. So let's get into it! Tail Shapes These are the common shape profiles I see for making kitsune-style tails whether it's a fur tail or crystal or unnatural.  A: Tube Sock - a uniform girth and rounded end. Close to reality.  B: Pointed Tube - a uniform girth that tapers at the tip.  C: Squirrel Style - wider in the middle rounded tip. Very much like an oval shape.  D: Pointed Barrel/Paintbrush  - the tail gets wider in the middle and tapers at the tip and at the top.  Tail Poses Another aspect of tail shape is how you want it to pose or hold in place.  Limp - a relaxed tail that hangs down loosely. It doesn't hold any pose.  C Curve - the tail is arche...
Post a Comment
Read more