Modesty's Costume Closet

Andon Bakama were hakama typically worn by women in an academic setting during the 1900s or so. Modern times, they are usually worn for formal occasions such as graduation. It is also the style that just looks nice with a kimono especially for those of us with Western hips the size of Texas.  See examples in Anime/Games: Here Comes Miss Modern, Great Ace Attorney Chronicles, Sakura Wars.  So let's get into how to make one. Tutorial style! Design Elements These are things to consider before you start.  by Chihirohowe Skirt Length Traditionally this is worn just below the ankle if you are wearing flat sandals, geta, or zori. It is worn above the ankle for sneakers, boots, and heels. You can adjust how high on your waist you wear it if you are going to switch between the two.  Colors Normally, these are a solid color, sometimes with embroidered floral patterns near the bottom. Red/Scarlet is uncommon outside of Miko. Patterned fabric is appropriate for this.  Side Openings The length

  Yes, change colors again. Now that I've had a little break, I'm ready to jump back into this project. It's gone through a few more revisions.  1) I departed from the Miko style and started leaning more into just Kimono + Hakama. I was starting to get tunnel vision with color choices and making sure I was picking the right colors. This way relaxes cultural/religious connotations which were starting to make me feel weird.  2) I changed colors AGAIN. But finally saw something on pinterest that I felt hit all the right marks for me and decided to borrow the color theme. I'm also going to put a pattern on the kimono and possibly on the hakama too via applique.  Other than that here's the plan: Study While writing this post, I landed on this YouTube channel and it's helping me so much! I know I'm super cheating and still doing thing costume style.  She also has sewing tutorials. 🎉 But watch just parts of her videos have already helped me with things like how to

The head of a puppet is the most work-heavy portion of the project. It does the heavy lifting of making this a puppet and not a doll. Today, I will show how I've patterned out the head which will be covered in fabric.  Patterning Process  First, the head was wrapped with saran and taped with masking tape. I made sure the jaw was mostly open while doing this. This will cause some "pucker" in the fabric around the mouth which I do want.   Next, I draw stitch lines. and color change areas. This is something I did by feeling and past experience making stuffed animals. I knew where the nose would be and where the eyes should go and their shape. I marked lines were the color will change from silver to white on the face. The other lines are just where I thought stitch lines would look good.  Then, I cut the masking tape along the stitch lines and removed it from the 3D printed head.  Finally, I cut darts until flattened. I do this by finding corners and cutting straight into the

 ...shoulders knees and toes! Just a little update on some of the little things I've been doing.  I printed out a couple versions of the eyeballs just to see which one looks best. It took a few layers of white paint but we got there.  For these eyeballs, I printed out the iris and made a cabochon out of uv resin. The 3D printed eye is round with a flat part where the cabochon and iris sit. I then continued to blob on UV resin (Gel Nail polish) until the shape was smoothed out and it was shiny. I like the size of these irises but I wanted to try to experiment.    These eyes were from Tioh and already had an indented iris and pupil. I used acrylic paints to color the iris and pupil. (I messed up one pupil.) Once the paint was dry, I filled in the indent with UV resin. My paint job kind of ruins this but I want to see how they look in the face. I'm not sure if large or small irises are better.  I'm also painting the teeth and gums for the mouth pieces.  Painted and sealed with

 I'm going to share a bit of my process for making decisions. Lately, I have been assailed by indecisiveness and fretting about costume colors. So, I've sat myself down and did some practical things to help make these decisions.  Requirements This will require visual aides so either use a drawing that you will trace and color in or scan in a drawing to manipulate on art software. I use Photoshop but you can use any program that lets you dump colors and change layers.  Process Brainstorm :  Find inspiration based on costume themes or favorite colors or common color compliments for clothes or traditional cultural colors.  Create a cookie cutter template where you can place the colors generally where they need. If you are doing this physically, make sure the linework is bolded so you can retrace and try other colors.  Look at them all side-by-side.  Eliminate first by 'feeling'. "I'm not crazy about this combo." "Not my vibe." "Just not into it

 The production of this costume has been as elusive as a unicorn. In part because I've put some kind of extra pressure on myself to have a certain look for my dance. So, hopefully, writing this will help me nail down some of my indecision. (Spoilers: It does!) Source Inspiration The theme of the dance is Night at the Movies, and I picked "The Last Unicorn". I will be dancing a rumba to the opening theme. I knew I was going to be "the unicorn" and my partner will be another character. (I'm hoping the red bull.)  Design Considerations In any costume design there's both a practical and aesthetic consideration.  Dance Costume Considerations Because I will be dancing with a partner, I need to make sure that my garment is out of our feet's way, I can move my arms and legs freely, and I don't have any costume malfunctions. So the major points of consideration are:  - hem length: I want to avoid catching the hem on my heel or have my partner trod upon a

Progress Report Time! The beginnings of the puppet are taking shape. The focus has been on getting the head infrastructure in place.  3D model by Tioh So this was kind of the "easy" part. I resized the models to fit the sketch size and then just let it print. I mean nothing too fancy. I've temporarily attached the lower jaw with zip ties but I'm not mad at how it's been working so far so I may just keep the zip ties on. 🤷  I did the same thing for the eye mechanics Original by Tioh The mouth was also resized and printed. These were so tiny but proportional so glad I didn't have to sculpt them.  A beautiful fit! Now the models still need some work. The eyes and teeth need to be the proper colors. The inside of the head needs a few things to prepare for internal mechanics. But before getting into all that, I will have to create a pattern for the fabric covering the head. I'll be taping down masking tape or painter's tape over saran wrap. The tricky part

 Since I have settled on a front-carrying design, I started delving into more research on making hand puppets in general.  Size Reference Diagram The Plan (Currently) Most of the sculpting will be done with 3D printing instead of clay. I just prefer to do things this way. The body framework will include armature wire, EVA foam, and I will most likely sculpt the paws from clay. I plan to cover the body with a mix of felt, Minky, and brushed-out acrylic yarn. The puppet will open and close its mouth and blink.  Prep Work  So far I've been doing a search for 3D models and finding the scale. Once I found a good base for the head, I had to figure out how big this thing would be. I found my oversized drawing paper, traced my arm in the "puppet position", then started building out the puppet around it. I will use the drawing as a guide when creating the frame of the body and sculpting the paws.  3D Models I'm using several free 3D models by Tioh on Thingiverse including the

Because my whole thing lately has been anime related knitting projects, I do a LOT of color work. I guess I did start in an unusual way by learning some of the trickier aspects of knitting. This post will go over how color charts "work", how I use them to make a pattern and how to make your own.  Types of Color Work In knitting there are many names for color work:  Color Change, Striping (horizontal stripes) Marling, Marled (Speckles) Illusion/Shadow Color (It's just cool looking. Knits and purls that hide a pattern unless you look at a certain angle or stretch it.)  Stranding, Fair Isle, Mosaic, Norwegian (Carrying strands of yarn behind the work.) Intarsia, Color Block (Changing color at key points and rejoining old color.) Double Knitting, Reversible Knitting (Knitting two pieces of fabric at the same time.) Duplicate Stitch, Monogram (Stitching on top of current stitches after the work is fully knitted.)  Regardless of how the color work is done, color charts are made