Skip to main content

Costume Footwear Series: 3D Printed Shoes

Printing your own shoes is a slowly growing hobby, but it can be a bit dubious because 3D printing can be finicky and it could be dangerous. Most beginner friendly 3D shoes include slides, flip-flops, or sneakers. There are a few high heels that I have seen, but when it comes to shoe making, this is a style of shoe that is difficult to design properly and safely even in regular shoemaking. 

Here are some of the benefits and drawbacks of 3D printed shoes: 

  • Accurate replication of shoe parts
  • Durable material, suitable for outdoor or indoor use
  • Flexible to firm
  • Orthopedic Friendly
  • Many files available
Drawbacks
  • Flexible filament difficult to print with for beginners
  • May need a specialized 3D printer
  • Can be more expensive for simple style shoes (Think, A few dollars for a pair of flip-flops versus one you print yourself that have a high investment cost.) 
  • Disconnect between digital and physical models
  • Takes a LONG time to print a shoe

What you need to 3D Print Shoes

An FDM printer with enough print volume for your shoe size and an extruder close to the hotend/nozzle (if printing with TPU)
TPU 75a - 95a 
TPU High Speed 70a - 95a
Flexible PLA*
Patience

*Reportedly can be printed with a bowden tube style FDM printer instead of the direct one. 

Note: Some parts of a shoe can be printed with hardened plastics like PLA, ABS, or PETG or even resin. Particularly armor parts, spurs, charms or other non-flexible things. Just keep in mind that the foot is a very flexy part of the body and anything that doesn't bend may break. 

How I approach 3D printed Shoes

For costumes I'm likely going to make a fabric or yarn shoe over a completely 3D printed shoe. I only look to 3D print a sole or insole when it comes to shoes. 3D printing gives me a nice firm but flexible base similar to EVA foam...but I don't have to cut. 

So far I have made a pair of knitting soles for a pair of slippers. But I am also making a pair of zori sandals. I shall update with more on that later. 

Here are links to the knitting soles I printed: 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Kimono Series: Measure & Cutting the Kimono

This is the primary benefit to making your own kimono, having it tailored to you! In this post, I will go over the following:  Body Measurements you need Names of the Panels and their dimensions Calculating Fabric needs Tailoring points And a few tips and resources With measurements there are major and minor measurements. Focus on the major measurements for calculating fabric amount and the size and shape of the panel pieces. The minor measurements are mostly for construction so you put the pieces together correctly and they fall in the right place for your body. Lets start with the measurements you need to take on the body.  Body Measurements There are only 3 body measurements for kimono, although they will differ slightly between a masculine and feminine kimono. You need:  Yuki  - a measurement taken from the spine at the base of the neck to the shoulder joint, then to the wrist while holding the arm at a 45° angle. (You CAN T-Pose it but it is a little less accura...

Hakama Series - Side Opening Covers/Pockets

The side openings on hakama can feel a bit exposing if you're not wearing a full kimono underneath or perhaps you just can't stand to be without pockets! While these things are not necessarily historically accurate for the area, you can make it work.  Modesty Panels These will be panels of fabric that hang from your waist at your sides where the openings of the hakama are. You can choose to attach these to the belts (himo) of your hakama or to make your own waistband.  You can use any kind of cloth but the idea is to use any left over clothe from making your hakama. But if you want different colors or prints go for it.  You will cut a rectangle with rounded corners that is 16" tall and about an inch wider than your side openings (sasahida). To keep it from fraying, either use a serger or overlock machine to finish the edges except at the top. Alternatively, use a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine all around the edges except the top..  Make a waistband fro...

Becoming a Kitsune: Tail Design Considerations

The key element of a kitsune character is the tail (or tails in most cases). You'll need to determine what you want the tail to look like so you can determine the best method of attachment. The primary consideration for attachment is weight . The things that affect weight are size and materials. So let's get into it! Tail Shapes These are the common shape profiles I see for making kitsune-style tails whether it's a fur tail or crystal or unnatural.  A: Tube Sock - a uniform girth and rounded end. Close to reality.  B: Pointed Tube - a uniform girth that tapers at the tip.  C: Squirrel Style - wider in the middle rounded tip. Very much like an oval shape.  D: Pointed Barrel/Paintbrush  - the tail gets wider in the middle and tapers at the tip and at the top.  Tail Poses Another aspect of tail shape is how you want it to pose or hold in place.  Limp - a relaxed tail that hangs down loosely. It doesn't hold any pose.  C Curve - the tail is arche...