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Sailor Scout Cosplay: Planning and Designing

 This year for the Dance Party I want to go as a Sailor Scout. Currently, I'm not sure which character I'll go as or if I'll design my own or do some kind of crossover. (Sailor Mitsuri maybe. 😜) I have such a soft spot for the original characters as I grew up in the 90s with the original release of the manga in English and the wonky 90s anime. However, I do like some of the new designs of the reboot. 

Thankfully, the characters all have the same BASE to the costume that is a leotard, with a sailor collar and short skirt. In essence, I'm going to work off my growing knowledge of how to sew swimsuits and leotard-based dancesport costumes to make this. And I did cheat and get a pattern just to get some ideas about how to put things together. But I think I'll make my own way. 

As far as the variations between characters go, the differences are typically found in the sleeves, the colors, and the gemstone broach designs. (When looking exclusively at the Sailor Fuku/Uniform). Obviously accessories will vary too.  

Costume Plans

My designs for this outfit will in part also need to accommodate my dancing. I don't foresee issues with tripping on a hem. So some aspects I foresee needing: 
  • Built-in Bust support/Bra
  • Fluttery or Bouncy short skirt
  • Can work with my dance shoes (obviously will need to make boot covers)
  • A hairstyle that doesn't get in my way or take a lot of work
  • Accessories that can stay on despite lots of movement

Design Ideas - Current Edition

I downloaded a Magical Girl costume pattern to get some ideas on the shapes for things and how to construct it. I've got a Pin Board full of tutorials and references which all have various approaches to this costume style. I think ultimately, I will draft my own pattern for a few things but use the leotard base of the pattern as a blocking tool. 

In my research, there are typically two approaches cosplayers take with the skirt: either make it detachable or incorporate it into the leotard. This is similar to how some dance sport bodices work where you can have a detachable skirt so you can use the same bodice for Latin or Standard styles. I think I'd prefer to keep it incorporated into the leotard, but if I find that too challenging then I have an alternative. I have in mind 3 methods: Swimsuit Skirt, Overdress, or Detached Skirt.
In all methods I intend to have a snap bottom opening to pull this on over my head.

Swimsuit Skirt/Skirted Leotard method

This would be based off the method of adding a peplum skirt to a one piece swimsuit. The idea here is that I would have a lined leotard, the lining would be one solid piece (just not attached at the crotch gusset). The outer layer would have 3 pieces: the bust, the waist, and the bottom sections. Attach the bust to the waist on the back and front pieces, Then sew the side seams for the top and bottom halves. Make the skirt out of a stretch fabric, may need to gather it onto a waist band of sorts (TBD), then attach to the bottom of the waist right sides together. Over that slide on the leotard bottoms with the right side of the bottoms touching the wrong side of the skirt. line up the edges and sew through all three layers. Turn it right side out and insert the lining with wrong sides of the lining touching the wrong side of the skirted leotard. Close edges by inserting elastic into the arm holes and leg holes. Add snaps to the crotch gusset. 



This does make the skirt fully attached which makes it secure for dancing. And I've done this before a few times.
It can also help install the collar if there is lining. 
On the downside, this uses more fabric. The fabric I use for the skirt is limited to stretch fabric. 

Overdress Method

This is similar to how I made my ballroom gown. There's an internal "lining" leotard and an outer dress. Similar to the swimsuit, I'd make an "under-leotard" just one solid piece with a bra shelf and the snap crotch opening and elastic in the leg holes. The outer dress will consist of two leotard pieces the bust and waist. I attach the bust and waist then treat those as one piece.  I create a skirt attached to a V-shaped belt and then attach that to the bottom edge of the waist piece. 
Turn the over dress inside out. Somehow attach the collar and sleeves. Then with the wrong side of the lining against the wrong side of the overdress, attach via the armholes and neckline. Turn right side out to finish! 

The benefit to this one is that the skirt does NOT need to be made with stretch fabric, it can be a light-weight fabric This is kind of similar to what I saw on SailorMars Tumblr. 

The downside is that it uses more fabric. It's a little complicated to construct.

Detached Method

For this I would not need to make a lined leotard. I could simply make the leotard two part: Top and bottom. Sew those together, and then sew the side seams. Finish the leg and arm holes with elastic and use the collar to finish the neckline. Add hook and loop tape (Velcro) or Sew in snaps to the body where the skirt should sit. 

Sew the skirt to a belt. It doesn't need to be a connected loop. Add snaps/Velcro to the belt to match the body suit. Attach after I put on the leotard. 

The benefits to this is that you can make the skirt out of non-stretch material and the leotard is one layer making it use less fabric and feel lighter. (Although I'd still add a bra shelf). You could make it partially attached by just sewing the belt to a point on the back or front of the leotard. Then use a connecting material on the sides and front. This can give a tiny bit more security while wearing the costume.  

The downside is that the skirt could fall off.

Although ANOTHER alternative to this would be to make the skirt attached to an elastic waistband belt that can just slide on over. You might lose the signature V-shape of the skirt but it does make it easier put on and keep on without adding extra doo-dads to the leotard.

So that's my thoughts on leotards and such. Before really moving forward, I have to pick a character. Which has been a bit of a journey which I'm writing now!
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