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Shrine Maiden Progress - Juban and Hakama

One of the most frustrating things is learning a better way to do things after the fact. Like, I found a better more authentic kimono pattern after I cut the pieces. I am learning a lot about kimono styling and construction lately. I plan on taking a class even. Along with the course on knitting project management. 
(I have a problem, but I'm taking steps to fix it.)

Note: Technically, there is no "pattern" for kimono, it is all rectangles cut at specific lengths and put together. I use pattern or template pieces that have my measurements because wrestling fabric in my small space is hard enough without having to measure for each piece. Also lord help me I can't cut a straight line without a guide. 

Let's start with the Juban. 

Juban/Hanjuban

When I originally started this project, I knew that juban was a thing you wore under the kimono. I have one from the yukata I got years ago. I knew it could be different colors to peek from under the kimono. The patterns I had were for an "undershirt" or a "dicky" with waist padding. (Actually the waist padding thing would be useful!)

What I DIDN'T realize was: 
  • I actually own what's known as a hanjuban, or just the shirt portion. You are suppose to wear a wrap skirt (akin to a slip for skirts) with it. Alternatively, you wear a nagajuban which is a full length undergarment. But not the underwear again, more like a slip. Thus what I ended up making was yet another hanjuban. 
  • I forgot that this was going to be for a puppet performance so I may need to remove the sleeves I worked so hard to make. 
  • My new juban is incredibly short. 
  • The internal ties the pattern suggested are garbage and I'm glad I cut them off. 
  • A juban also creates the shape of the collar and requires a stiff flexible plastic-ish stripe known as an "Eri". I made one from cardstock. It works. 
  • Pressing seams and folds is essential! This is why the collar got crinkly and twisted a bit. 
Contruction:
 I ended up following the McCall's pattern for the most part except I added an han eri which is like another collar to place over the original collar which worked out great because I really beans-ed the collar. After adding that to the construction I was able to insert the Eri I created out of cardstock and masking tape. And thanks to a tip from one of Billy's video's I made a tie pull tab to help hold my ties and shape the collar. 
Also made a datejime or a flattening belt to wear over my ties and flatten my waist. (In theory. It tries really hard to flatten what is round!) 
And when I put it on, I was pleased over all because I could blend what I've learned about kitsuke (getting dressed in a kimono...it's an art/science). It was FAR too short to be proper but it will work for this costume. Except I need to widen the armpit hole so I can fit my arm through it and add a fake arm.)

Kimono

Again, I was going to use the shorter version included with the McCall's pattern and just let the hakama cover the rest. It would save fabric after all! It will be a lined kimono because that's what the pattern lays out. I cut out roses from quilting squares and added fusible webbing to them to place on the sleeves later. 
I remembered to use the large sizing I think. I cut the pattern pieces so they are ready to go. However...

What I failed to consider: 
  • I literally learned today that there are such things as unlined kimono: Hitoe and Summer Kimono. (I forget the actual term.) Anyway, point is that I could have saved even more fabric by leaving it unlined! At the same time, this costume does benefit from the lining. 
  • The fusible webbing I used was poor quality and very finicky. Thankfully, I had Heat n' Bond brand on stand-by. I was able to put the flowers on.  
  • I finally learned how to measure for a kimono...so now I want to make it a proper full length one, but I can't because the fabric is cut!
  • I'm going to need to make ties or himo for this. 
  • There are so many helpful body shapers specifically for kimono including hip pads which may be on my list. 
  • I do have a han obi that works for this but part of me wants to CHEAT and just use a wrap belt with a clip on obi ribbon tie because that would be faster to put on. 
  • I miscalculated the length, it feels VERY short maybe even shorter than the hanjuban. 
  • Ants got into my leftover fabric and I filled it with bug spray so now I can't use it. 
Construction
At this point the pieces are cut out and labeled, I pressed on the flowers, and I brushed up on how to make the collar. I got a smaller iron so I can quickly press seams without the hulking weight of my proper iron. I also bought some chest padding and saved a few things on Etsy that I'm going to consider getting. 

I'm at the point where I need to attach the collar. I think the sleeves are going pretty well but I have to remember to leave the under arm hole large. I'm certain I can finish sewing it this week. 

Hakama/Andon Bakama

I followed my OWN instructions and you know what...SUCCESS! So far these are turned out really well. The only downside is that I was a bit tired and did not sew the side seams with the right sides facing together, so I had to re-do that. But the side openings look good and I have enough left over material to make a portable pocket! 

I did learn a few things: 
  • Poplin is great but you do need starch to help with pleats. Polyester or Cotton Broadcloth would pleat easier I think. 
  • Because this was cut cross grain, ironing worked better going horizontal across pleats instead of down the length. Tedious but they are currently crisp!
  • There are some hakama that leave the basting in to keep the pleats. I may consider doing that but hidden on the backside. 
  • My folding instructions worked! I was worried they wouldn't! I can now say that my suggested instructions are legit!  AND it fits! So my measurement calculations were correct. 
  • I did a more costume version of the Sasahida (side opening folds) because I didn't want to hand stitch things...I was at my machine!
Construction:
Cutting went well. I used my little iron to press the pleats, but man starch really makes a difference! I did the folding just fine and stitched them down with edge stitching. When I did try to put the two sides of the skirts together, I noticed that I put the front panel on backwards. I fixed that after ironing on the flowers. Then I stitched up the belts and attached them to the skirt panels. I need to press the belts to make them flatter but I tried on the hakama and it fits! 



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