Sewing Patterns: Is it cheating? It feels like cheating.

Sewing patterns are much like cooking recipes. You'll find a list of ingredients, measurements, and instructions to complete the dish or clothing item. It's a legitimate way to learn a bit about how to sew (or cook). At the very least it helps you learn terminology and techniques that you can do tutorial searches for. 

Making patterns is a skill that takes time to learn. Just like coming up with original recipes is a learned skill.  Even if all we do is follow recipes, over time we start to gain knowledge, preferences, and our own little tricks that we can apply to projects. Eventually, instead of following a pattern word for word, we start adding our own methods. As we collect patterns, we start to mix and match. 

Myself, I don't often follow the instructions for adding sleeves like most patterns suggest. I use a method I learned from a t-shirt tutorial. (It's so much easier!) 

The skirt thing on this costume was a pattern piece

You also do not have to use the pattern at all. They can be great resources of research for designing your own outfit or perhaps used as a Base pattern. I mean, having a pattern for leggings, a bodice, leotards, a sleeveless dress, or different shirts can really come in handy for many types of characters. 

Commercial Patterns

Simplicity, McCall's, Buttrick, QuikSew, Burda, etc are the major commercial brands that make sewing patterns. Seriously, some of these companies are over 100 years old. So they've been making clothing patterns for ages! I actually have an antique 1940s pattern and the instructions are pretty similar to modern stuff. Although the sizes are slightly different. 

Simplicity and McCall's definitely have their own line of costume and specifically cosplay patterns. It's growing all the time as the hobby gains popularity. Probably because of licensing fees, the cosplay patterns are close to but not exactly like particular characters. So you'll find a pattern for "Plumber Brothers" instead of "Mario Brothers". 

I usually use Simplicity or McCall's patterns in my work. Partly because these are available at my local craft store and I've used them most of my life. 

Simplicity Pattern #8113

Simplicity Pattern #8127

The above examples are patterns I made following the instructions. Mostly.  Actually, I did a lot of altering to Princess Zelda to resemble my references and took some shortcuts because I didn't want to get fabric for lining the bodice and I didn't want to add a zipper to the dress. (I have a hard time with zippers.) 

Pros and Cons

✅ Widely Available with a Broad Selection

✅ Use Common Sewing Terminology

✅ Already printed (Although you can get digital versions)

✅ Detailed, Illustrated Instructions

✅Difficulty ranges from Easy to Hard, usually they're upfront about it

⛔ Uses Standard Clothing Sizes

⛔ Not available for Licensed Characters (although you'll find adjacent patterns 😉 )

⛔ Not super Authentic for most Historical or Cultural outfits 

⛔ Many use a weird tissue paper that tears easily

⛔Patterns get discontinued over time

⛔ Difficult to re-use a pattern 

⛔ Cannot Sell items made with the pattern, personal use only

⛔ More expensive than Indie Patterns

Often times you can find a pattern that works well as a base to design from or at least a piece of the pattern that will work with your overall design. You can also mix and match different patterns that are similar. Right now I'm working on a furisode kimono. I have a pattern for the robe and a different one for the Obi belt. 

Indie Patterns

Etsy is usually my to-go site for finding patterns from Independent pattern-makers, especially for Licensed characters. A web search or Pinterest search for patterns also yields results. It's really cool when they offer printed versions of their patterns, but more often than not, it's a digital pattern you have to print yourself. 

Made with an Indie Leotard Pattern

Found a free "guide" online for the skirt and kimono top

Using Indie patterns can be a mixed bag. There's no standard for terminology, illustrations, and markings on the patterns. The pattern maker's skill level is another variable. So you roll the dice a bit. 

For the leotard, everything was documented similar to commercial sewing patterns. It was easy to follow. The kimono top was not something I printed. I was given the shapes, drew the pattern, and followed a video tutorial. Again, it was not that difficult. 

Recently, I downloaded a pattern from Etsy for Hakama. (Faux hakama actually. It uses elastic in the waistband. Heresy.)

Anyway, the instructions were not what I was expecting. It took me a long time to understand the instructions because they used their own terminology for things. Not to mention the illustrations were labeled poorly. Not sure if it was a standard of their country of origin or an ESL thing, but I could not figure out what the Straight Side of the pattern was. (With some guesswork, it meant what most patterns call the "right side" of the fabric/pattern. But I'm not 100% sure.)

The other downside is printing. Most of us have a standard printer for A4 or Letter size paper. So for large pattern pieces, you'll need to print a lot of pages. Then you have to line things up and tape all the pages together. THEN you can cut the pattern piece. I find using cardstock is helpful for these kinds of situations because it's sturdier, but it's expensive.  You could cut pieces then assemble but I've had better luck with the other method personally. 

Pros and Cons

✅  Licensed Characters available as patterns

✅  Wide Selection of outfits

✅  Often cheaper than commercial patterns

✅  More authentic for Historical or Cultural Costumes

✅  May include Video tutorials!

✅  May include support from the pattern maker (not guaranteed)

✅ Depending on the license may be able to sell what you make with the pattern. 

⛔ Instructions can vary in clarity, terminology, and quality

⛔ Must print the pattern on your own printer

⛔When printing, you have to assemble and align pieces before cutting

⛔ Pattern-maker skill quality varies

⛔ No standard for sizing, terminology, or instructions

Pattern Making

To get to the point of making your own patterns there are a couple methods to consider. 

1. You can take courses or read books about patterning clothes. 
2. Learn to recognize common clothing pattern shapes.
3. Buckle down and create mock-ups out of muslin and figure things out. (Draping Method)

If you're trying to learn by sewing lots of patterns then consider: 

• Learning how to adjust or tailor patterns to you (or others)
• Collect and compare patterns from different companies for similar clothing items.
• Learn the common shapes and methods

Other methods for pattern making that are accessible: 

• Blocking a pattern. Bodices, Leggings, and vests are good starting points. 
• Creating a duct tape dummy of a body part, draw the pattern then cut it out and flatten it. 
• Start with armor pieces instead of clothes. That way you get the basics down. 
• Look into pattern making software

Pros and Cons

✅Creative Freedom! No need to rely on someone else!

✅Best for making accurate cosplay

✅ Tailored for YOU

✅ Skills only improve over time

✅Free to sell what you make with the pattern or offer the pattern itself for sale

⛔Have to print or draw out pattern templates

⛔Can be expensive to learn

⛔Can be discouraging at the beginning

⛔Can make a project take longer

⛔So much paper! 

You don't HAVE to become a pattern maker to make your costumes, just like you don't have to be a chef to cook a decent meal for someone. We all have our particular passions and goals. Personally, I don't like printing out pattern pieces much. I much rather tailor a pattern to me. I know how to do that and I want to spend my efforts learning how to sculpt better. So, in the end, it's NOT cheating to use a sewing pattern, even if it may FEEL like copying someone else's answers. Costumes are fun and I full support pattern-makers for their efforts to make my work easier.